Friday, May 8, 2015

Sew-Along #24 - Sweet Polly Playclothes - Lesson #4

The Sweet Polly Playclothes by Izzy & Ivy Designs

Please read through the Sweet Polly pattern directions before beginning this sew-along. You will need to keep these directions handy. If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share during the sew-along; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them to enlarge. 

Welcome to Day 4 of the Sweet Polly's Play Clothes Sew Along.  

The Cardigan
Today we are wrapping up the final top piece of the sew along with the cardigan. 

I made 2 of these, one for each kid.  For the first one, I made it as directed by the pattern. But for the second one, I added a little ruffle along the placket.  I will show you how to do that in case you want to give it a try.  

Shoulders, Sleeves, and Side Seams
For the cardigan, you will start out the same way as with the T-shirt; match the shoulder seams, right sides together and sew the two shoulder seams.  You will want to use a stretch stitch and a ballpoint needle if you are using a sewing machine, or use a serger (as discussed in Day 2 of the sew along).

Once the shoulder seams are sewn, lay the cardigan down, right side up and open it out flat.  

Then, place the sleeve, right sides together, along the edge of the arm opening of the cardigan.  You can match along the raw edges and pin them in place if you want.

Sew along the raw edges of arm opening and sleeve remembering that if you have pinned, you need to remove the pins before you get to the knife on your serger or before you sew over them if you are using a sewing machine.  

Now repeat this process to sew the second sleeve into place.  
Note: At this point, I like to fold my hem into the sleeve and press it (1" fold) just to mark it and make it easier to stitch into place later.  Once it is pressed, unfold the hem and proceed to the next step below, sewing up the side seams.
Once both sleeves have been sewn into the arm, match the side seam (right sides together) from the bottom edge of the cardigan, under the arm of the cardigan and down the length of the sleeve.  Now sew this seam in one pass. 

You now have the basic shell of your cardigan and we are ready to add the bindings and placket. 

Measure your neckline opening (without stretching the fabric) and take that measurement, multiply it by .75, and cut your neck binding piece to that length.  Alternatively, you can cut a piece longer than your neck opening and then trim the edge when you are done sewing it in place (I prefer the first method).

Once your binding is cut, fold the piece in half lengthwise and press it. 

Now, align the binding raw edge with the neck opening raw edge, right sides together, and stitch the binding piece to the neck opening.  You will need to stretch the binding piece as you go so that it stretches to the length needed to extend along the whole neck opening.  (If you are trimming at the end, just stretch the binding slightly along the whole edge of the neckline.) 

Once you have the neck binding in place, trim away the excess of the binding (if you did not pre measure and use 75% of the opening) so that it is even with the front edge of the cardigan.
I did my first cardigan using the sew and stretch method without pre-measuring but didn't like how it turned out.  So I did the other method with my second cardigan and it came out much better!

Now follow the same process for the bottom binding, applying it along the entire bottom edge of the cardigan.  

Once both the neck binding and bottom binding are in place, you will add the plackets.  

Ruffle Trim
For my ruffle trimmed cardigan, I cut 2 additional strips about 3" wide, and folded them in half lengthwise.  Then I gathered the strips and pinned them along the raw edge of my cardigan front (not overlapping the bottom or neck binding).  I did this for both sides before I added the placket.  Once the ruffle was in place, I proceeded through adding the packet as normal. 

To stabilize the placket, you will want to iron interfacing to the wrong side of both placket pieces.  
Sorry, I switched fabrics here because I realized I didn't take great pictures of this part the first go around.  There are only a few with the different fabric, so hopefully it isn't too confusing.
Once the interfacing is applied, fold the place in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew both short edges. 

Once the edge is sewn, turn the placket piece right sides out, using a point turner or chopstick to push out the point.  Then press the placket. 

Now match the placket piece, raw edge to the right side of the front edge of the cardigan (over the ruffles if you added them) and stitch along the edge.  

Repeat for the second placket.  Once the plackets are sewn into place, press the seam allowance toward the cardigan along the plackets and the neckline.  Now, topstitch from the bottom edge of the placket, around the neckline, and back down the other side of the placket.  

Finally, turn your pre-ironed hems back up on the sleeves and stitch 3/4" from the bottom edge.  

If you want to add buttons or snaps to your cardigan, you can also do so.  I left mine without because that is how we like to wear them.  Plus, that way you can see the cute cascade ruffles we added to the t-shirt!

And with that, you are done!  See you soon with Day 5 of the sew along when we will start on the pants!

* If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo(s) of your completed lesson four item(s) to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, May 12th.  Note: If you are making more than one item during the sew-along, please submit a separate photo for each item. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

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