Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Sew-Along #24 - Sweet Polly Playclothes - Lesson #5

The Sweet Polly Playclothes by Izzy & Ivy Designs

Please read through the Sweet Polly pattern directions before beginning this sew-along. You will need to keep these directions handy. If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share during the sew-along; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them to enlarge.

The Ruffled Capris
Hello and welcome to Day 5 of the Sweet Polly's Play Clothes Sew Along.  Today we are going to start on the bottoms in the Sweet Polly's Play Clothes pattern by sewing the ruffle capris.  

Side Seams
The basic construction of all three bottom options in this pattern are very similar with either a different shape to the leg or the addition of detail at the bottom, as is with this pair.  So most of the steps will be the same for the other two bottoms (leggings and flare pants).  

The first step in constructing the ruffle capris is to match one front leg to one back leg, right sides together, along the long side seam.  You will notice that the crotch seam of the front and back do not match.  That is fine, you just want the side seams to match at this point. 

Sew along the long side seam using a serger or a sewing machine with a stretch stitch and a ballpoint needle.  Repeat with the remaining front and back piece.  

Now we are going to work on gathering the ruffle for the bottom of the pant using the ruffle pieces cut from the chart on page 12.  One quick and easy way that I like to gather long ruffles is to set my machine to a straight stitch with a long stitch length.  

Then I firmly hold the thread at the top of the machine and begin sewing. 

The fabric will gather as you sew along the top edge.  I like to make sure I am sewing the ruffle stitch at a smaller seam allowance than what my pattern calls for, that way I know it will get caught in my seam and I will not be able to see that thread in my finished item.  

Repeat this for both ruffle pieces along one long edge.  

Now, open one leg piece out flat, right side up.  

Lay the ruffle piece, right side down, along the edge of the pant leg, matching the gathered edge of the ruffle with the bottom edge of the pant.  Pin the ruffle along the bottom edge.

Now sew alone the pinned edge, removing the pins as you come to them.  

Repeat this process for the second pant leg.  

Ruche Casing
Now we will apply the casing for the ribbon.  Take the ruche casing you cut (measurements on page 12) and lay it in top of the long side seam.  The casing should be aligned with the short side of the casing along the bottom edge of the pants (above the ruffle seam) and centered on the side seam.  

Pin the casing into place and then stitch down the center of the casing (down pant side seam), then again down each outer edge of the casing (approx 1/8" away from each edge). Repeat for the other pant leg.  

Note from Danielle: It is perfectly acceptable to leave the raw edges of knit exposed, as in the casing here.  I however, sometimes I prefer to not have the raw edge exposed as is the case with my capris.  Here is how I like to do it.

First, you might want to cut your casing just a bit larger.  I then grab my wash away wonder tape (affiliate link).  I have a slight addiction to this stuff.  I add some to the sides of the back of my casing pieces.  You don't really need full length strips like this.  It's probably overkill, but like I said, I really love this stuff.

After sticking all the sides down, I then topstitch the top and bottom of my casing.

This way all the edges are turned under and secured before applying the casing to my pants. I proceed to attach the casing just as Sarah and the instructions describe.

Putting Them Together 
Once that is complete, lay one pant leg out flat, right side up and then place the other pant leg right side down on top of it, matching the front curved seams and the back curved seams.  Sew along the curved front seam and the curved back seam.  

Once the front and back seams are sewn, match the front and back seams to each other, right sides together.  

At this point, they should look like pants.  Match the seam together at the crotch and sew from the bottom of one leg, up around the crotch seam and back down the other leg. 

Waist Casing
At the waist band edge of the pants, fold over the top edge to 1 and 1/4" (wrong sides together) and press.  

Sew along the folded edge at 1" to create the elastic casing.  You will want to leave an opening approx 3" wide along the folded edge in order to insert the elastic. 
Note from Danielle: I like to add a row of stitching around the very top edge of the waistband.  It just adds a little more professional look to your waistbands.  Be careful though that you sew very close to the edge though so you do not make your waistband too narrow for the elastic.
Now, take the elastic that you cut (measurements on page 10) and insert one end into the opening you left in the waistband.  I like to use a bodkin, but elastic threaders or a large safety pin also work well. 

Pull the elastic through the casing, making sure you leave the other end of the elastic sticking out of the casing.  

Overlap the two edges of the elastic and sew the edges together.

Stretch the waist band to pull the elastic completely into the waistband and sew the remaining opening of the waistband closed.  

The final step is to run the ribbon up from the bottom of one side of the ruche casing and down the opposite side.  Then tie the ribbons together, pulling the casing up to make a cute ruche.  

And you are done with the first pair of pants!  Congrats and I will see you back for the final lesson when we will make the leggings and/or the flare pants.  

* If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo(s) of your completed lesson five item(s) to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Thursday, May 14th.  Note: If you are making more than one item during the sew-along, please submit a separate photo for each item. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

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