Thursday, December 10, 2015

Sew-Along #29 - Fairy Tale Dress - Lesson #4

The Fairy Tale Dress by Oliver+S

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Note: Links to products within this post are either links to our website or affiliate links.

Welcome to Day 3 of the Oliver+S Fairy Tale Dress sew along!

If you do not have your pattern yet you can purchase it from the shop. It is in PDF format so you can print today and be ready to start. You can also purchase a kit as well from the shop. It has everything you need, other than thread, to make a gorgeous dress.

Before you begin today's lesson please read all of the pattern directions. In today's lesson we will be finishing up our dresses! We will make the slip skirt with crinoline, add the belt to View A, hand sew the lining onto the zipper and add the hook and eye to the top back of the dress.

1. Finish the back center edges of the skirt lining.  

2. Then, transfer the dot from the skirt pattern. We are going to measure ½" down from this mark and mark as second spot. The line (the newest mark we just made) will be our new sewing starting point on the skirt lining. 

3. Take the two back skirt lining pieces and pin them together with right sides facing. Stitch them together starting at the mark we made, stitching down to the bottom of the skirt.

4. Press the seam open all the way to the top of the skirt back, even the un-sewn part of the skirt. This will make it easier to add the crinoline onto the dress.

5. Take your lining skirt front and sew it onto the lining skirt back with the right sides facing. Finish your seams and then press open.

6. To hem the lining skirt, sew a basting stitch ½" from the raw edge all the way around.

7. Press up your bottom edge at the stitch line all the way around. 

8. Take your hem and fold it over so that the raw edge is sandwiched inbetween the fold. Press in place. This will make for a ¼" hem. Press well all the way around, then machine stitch in place.

9. Sew the tulle crinoline in the very same manner as the lining skirt, but do not hem or finish the edges as the tulle does not unravel. 

10. Pin the tulle crinoline skirt to the lining skirt with the two wrong sides facing together. Pin along the top and the back opening with the two skirts flush with each other.

11. Now, stitch the two together all the way around, including the back opening part for the zipper, pivoting at the bottom of the opening and continue sewing up the other side. 

12. Next, sew a gathering stitch all the way around the top of the lining/crinoline skirt.

13. Turn the dress inside out and pull the lining bodice up away from the main dress.

14. With the lining skirt right side facing the lining bodice right side, pin together starting at the folded edge of the skirt and bodice. Do not unfold these but rather pin them together as is.

15. Working your way around, match up the notches on the skirt lining to the side seams, darts, and notches of the bodice. Gather the skirt up evenly and pin in place. 

16. Sew together. Finish the seam allowances.

17. For this part of the dress I tuck my serger threads through the top of the overlocked threads with a tapestry needle for a clean look. This is how I finish all of my serger ends that are visible, like View A's sleeves.

18. Press the seam on the dress lining up towards the bodice.

For View B Skip Down to Step 39.
19. View A Only - Take your belt piece that was cut along the bias and fold it in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing together. Pin as you go. 

20. Stitch the long edge of this piece, stretching it slightly as you sew.

21. Trim the seam down for turning.

22. Turn your belt piece. I use a sturdy safety pin for mine,but you can also use a bodkin.

23. Take your turned belt and roll it with your fingers to help the seam to lay flat. Do not press the tubing flat. Leave it as is so it has some depth to it.

24. To add the belt to the dress, take the one raw edge of the belt and tuck ½" of the end inside the tubing.

25. Pin this to the back edge of the dress, but do not but it up against the very back edge, pull it out about a 1/16" so that you can still unzip/zip the dress easily. Pin the belt around the entire dress to the opposite back edge. 

26. Cut the belt a ½" longer than where it meets the back edge. Tuck a ½" of the raw edge back into the tubing as before. Pin in place.

27. Hand stitch the belt into place. I use a ladder stitch for this as well. I start on the short back end of the belt and stitch it to the dress, taking lots of very tiny stitches.

28. To sew it to the long side of the bodice, insert the needle into the belt and pull it back out, making an 1/8" stitch.

29. Take the needle and push it into the dress at the bottom of the bodice seam line right where the needle came out of the belt. Pull the needle through an 1/8".

30. Now, push the needle into the belt again right above where the thread came out of the bodice. Pull the needle through 1/8" again.

31. Pull all these threads taut. This is what it should look like. Repeat this stitching all the way around until you reach the other side of the zipper opening. Stitch the short end of the belt down, then come back up and ladder stitch the top of the belt in place.

32. To make the bow for the belt, take the left over piece that you cut form the belt and cut it to 7½" long. Mark the ¼", 2½" and 5" spots on the tubing.

33. Then, fold up your tubing, matching the markings you just made.

34. Stitch these together to hold them in place.

35. Take the long tail and fold it up at an angle and wrap it around the bow (this side that is pictured will be the back of the bow). Fold the raw edge of the tail up and wrap it to the back side of the bow. 

36. Stitch the folded edge of the tail to the back side of the bow.

37. Now we have a bow! "Fluff" the bow up a little.

38. Hand stitch the bow to the belt of the dress. Now this really does look like a dress. We are almost done!! If your little girl is anything like mine she had to try it on at this point. Yes, my little girl gets just as excited as I do about sewing dresses.

39. All Views - Flip the dress inside out and pin the dress lining to the zipper tape. Notice how the lining does not go all the way to the edge of the zipper tape. This is so the zipper can go up and down without being caught in the lining bodice. Ladder stitch the lining bodice and the top of the skirt lining in place.

40. Lastly, sew the hook and eye onto the top back of the dress. (Mine looks crooked, but it was the angle of the photo. Sorry.) That's it! We are all done!!

Try the newly sewn dress on your little girl {or get it in the mail off to your granddaughter(s)} and admire your work!! 

Thank you so much for joining us for our Fairy Tale Dress Sew Along! 

Happy Holiday Sewing ladies!!!

* If you would like to earn entries into the prize drawing, please make sure to submit a photo of your completed Lesson Four to this Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CST, Monday, December 14th. If you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Happy Sewing,
Danielle Storm

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