Thursday, December 4, 2014

Sew-Along #19 - Riley Dress and Dapper Bow Tie + Suspenders - Lesson 4

The Dapper and Riley by Modkid

Today we are going to create the collar for your Riley dress.  Please read the Riley pattern directions all the way through if you haven't already.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson before you begin also.

If you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.  Let's begin now.

A. Creating the Collar  

1. Trace one of your front neck band piece onto your fusible interfacing and cut out.  If you haven't done so already, make sure to transfer the loop marking dots to all of your back neck band fabric pieces.  I didn't do this the first time and ended up attaching the back neck bands backwards.  Oops!  After transferring your marks, trace two of your back neck band pieces (mirrored) onto your fusible interfacing and cut out.

2. Fuse the interfacing the the wrong side of these pieces.

3. I like to carefully press with my iron on the underside and then flip the piece over and iron on the top side to smooth it out.

4. With right sides together, pin 2 of your back neck band pieces to one of your front neck band pieces.  Stitch with a ½" seam allowance.  Repeat for the remaining neck band pieces.

5. Press the seams open on both neck bands.

6. We are going to attach the elastic cord (hair tie if you bought a kit) to the collar.  I like to use Washable Wonder Tape.  If you have this amazing stuff, pull it out and add a small strip to your bottom collar piece at the mark.

7. Now, add your elastic cord right on top of it like so.   If you don't have the tape, pin it in place. 
Note: Regarding the elastic hair ties, make sure to cut it in half only at the weld line.  This is where the hair tie is it's weakest.  Also, they tend to unravel easily.  In the past I've kept them longer than I needed and added a bit of tape to each of the ends.  Then, I just trimmed off the taped edge after securing the elastic.  I didn't have any tape handy here, so just went with it.  But, on the Rosecliff dress I made after this one, I didn't cut my hair tie until after I had stitched it on.  Don't know why I didn't think of that before.  It worked out GREAT!

8. I didn't want to just baste my elastic onto the collar, I wanted to make sure it was really secure.  I have one daughter that likes to test the strength of everything.  I think she is going to be an engineer someday.  Anyway, I decreased my stitch length and stitched back and forth over the elastic and within the seam allowance 3 or 4 times.

9. Pin the two neck bands with right sides together.  Stitch around them according to the diagram in the instruction booklet using a ½" seam allowance.

10.  I trimmed my seam allowance and then clipped my corners and around the entire seam allowance.  Just be careful to not cut through your seam if you trim is short like I did.

11. Turn your collar right sides out and push out your corners.  Press your collar well.

12. You now need to top stitch parallel lines around your collar.  It's called an echo effect. I marked out my stitch points so I stayed on track while sewing.  I'm showing them to you here, on my black collar, because you can see them better.  To make your marks, subtract your ½" seam allowance from the open (outer edge) side.  Then, divide the remaining width of your collar by 3.  Measure this 1/3 amount from the inside seam and mark all the way around.  Then, measure this same 1/3 distance from the first set of marks and mark again.

13. Stitch around your collar following these marks.

B.  Creating the Button

1. We are now going to make our covered buttons.  If you are not using covered buttons, skip down to section C.

2. If you purchased a kit you received a covered button kit.  On the packaging you will see a half circle like below.  Cut it out and then use it to trace a circle onto a scrap piece of fabric.  I normally trace a second circle and double the fabric when making a covered button. It keeps the shiny silver of the button from showing through the weave of the fabric when it's stretched around the button top.  If using a polka dot, like I am below, I would find a fabric that is more neutral for the lining fabric.  Otherwise, you will most likely see the dots on the lining fabric showing through.  You can just use a simple white fabric.  That's what I used.

3. Layer your button fabric with the lining fabric underneath. (Switched up the pictures on you here.)

4. Center the button making base on top of fabric circles. 

5. Carefully flip the whole thing over.

6. Push your button front down into the button making base, being careful not to shift your fabric.

7. Fold the edges of your fabric circles in and place the button back, shank side out, on top of the button.

8.  Using the button pusher, press the button back onto the button front, making sure all of the fabric raw edges are caught between the two. 
Note: I use a pistol grip clamp to snap my backs on.  I must have wimpy fingers because I seriously can't do it without the clamp.  If you are like me, a clamp might help.

9. Pop your button out of the base and admire the beautiful button you just created.

C.  Attaching the Button

1. You will be attaching your shank button ½" in from the edge of your collar.  Mark this location with a fabric pen.

2. Thread a needle and knot the end to form a double strand.  I like to use hand quilting thread because it's strong, but regular thread is fine too..  Then, going in from the open side of your collar, thread your needle up between the two layers of fabric.  This will ensure that the knot is hidden inside the collar.

3. Push your needle out at the mark you made and pull it all the way through, burying the knot within the inside of the collar.

4. To secure your knot, push your needle back down through the layers and out the underside of the collar.  

5. Then back up again.  This time you are going to thread your button onto your needle and thread.

6. Back down we go.

7. Now, pull your thread tight to secure your button, but not so tight it distorts your collar fabric.  Push your needle back up through to the front.  Go through your button shank again, and then back down to the underside.  Do this 2 or 3 more times to really secure the button.

8. Next you want to wrap your thread around the button shank and create a little loop.

9.  You then pass your needle through this loop and pull taunt.  Repeat making 2 or 3 more loops and passing your needle through them.

10. Lastly you want to pass your needle through the fabric/thread at the base of your button. 

11. Then, wrap your thread around your needle and pull tight to create a knot.

12. Before cutting your thread pass your needle back down through the inside of your collar and out the open edge.  Cut your thread at the needle and tie a couple of knots so that your thread is secure and your knot is hidden inside the collar.

Wow, it's coming together.  You're in the homestretch!  Make sure to come back tomorrow for the final lesson.

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson four to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, December 8th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thanks for sewing with me,
Danielle Storm

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