Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Sew-Along #19 - Riley Dress and Dapper Bow Tie + Suspenders - Lesson 3

The Dapper and Riley by Modkid

Please read the Riley pattern directions all the way through if you haven't already.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson before you begin also.

If you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.  Let's begin now.

A. Creating the Ties

1. Grab two of your tie pieces and pin with right side together.  Leave the short end open.

2.  With a ½" seam allowance stitch all three sides of the tie together  Don't forget to leave the short end open for turning. 
Note: When pivoting at the corners you can create a sharper corner if you pivot your fabric 45°.  Then, using your hand wheel, make one stitch across the corner.  This stitch forces the seam allowances into the corner, creating a sharper point.

3. Clip corners, notch hills, and clip valleys.  Do this carefully without clipping any stitches.  Here is a great tutorial explaining why you need to do this.

 4. I also trimmed the seam allowance at the bottom of the ties because it seemed a little too bulky.

 5. Make sure to carefully push out all of the corners.

 6. Then, press well.  Repeat with second set of ties. 

B. Attaching the Ties to the Dress

1. Grab your center front panel.  Pin the ties in place.  Make sure to carefully follow the orientation of the ties shown in the instruction booklet.  I wrote in the seam allowance on my ties "Left" and "Right" so that I would remember.  Your ties should be centered on your notches.

2. Baste in place within the seam allowance.

C. Attaching the Side Panels and Back of Dress

1.  With right sides together, pin your two side panels to the center front panel.  Make sure the loose ends of your ties are not caught up in the seams.  Stitch seams with a ½" seam allowance.

2.  Finish seams with either a zig-zag stitch or by overlocking.

3. Press these seams to the back of the dress.

4. Top stitch both seams.

5. Lay out your dress like so and cross your ties in front so they are out of the way of the side seams.

6. With right sides together lay your dress back on top of the center front panel and side panels.  Pin together being careful to not catch up those ties.  Stitch using a ½" seam allowance.  Finish the seams with either a zig-zag or overlock stitch.

D. Attaching the Sleeves

1.  Fold your sleeve with right sides together and pin.  Follow the diagram in your instruction booklet, pinning from the bottom edge of the sleeve to the sleeve opening.  Stitch together with a ½" seam allowance.  Zig-zag or overlock the seam to finish.  Repeat with the second sleeve.

2. Turn your sleeves right sides out.  Then, lay out one of your sleeve openings like shown below.

3. With right sides together and matching up the underarm seam, top edges, and notches, pin the sleeve to the sleeve opening.  .

4.  Carefully stitch in place with a ½: seam.  Finish with a zig-zag or overlock stitch.  Repeat for the second sleeve.

5.  Press the seams toward the sleeve.  A tailor's ham will help with this.
Your Riley is starting to look like a dress.  Hooray!  Make sure to come back tomorrow for the next lesson.

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson three to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Friday, December 5th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thanks for sewing with me,
Danielle Storm

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