Sew-Along #20 - Sleepover Pajamas - Lesson #4

The Sleepover Pajamas by Oliver+S

Welcome to the Sleepover Pajama sew-along.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.  

NOTE: Please make sure you read over the Oliver-+S instructions prior to starting this lesson.  We will be working on page 8-10 today.  You will need to keep these O+S instructions open and where you can read them as you go through the lesson.  The O+S instructions give a more thorough and detailed description of each step and will be necessary to complete these pajamas.

Today we will:

1. Assemble the Legs
2. Prepare the Pants Cuff
3. Create the Waistband

A. Assemble the Legs

I like to construct pants a little differently from the instructions on the pattern.  O+S uses the proper technical way to sew them, I just use the easy way.  Below is how I do mine.

1. Line up the curved seam of the pants and sew together.  Finish the seam.

2. Turn the pants so that the leg seams line up and sew.  Finish the seam.

  

B. Prepare the Pants Cuff

This is probably my FAVORITE method of adding cuffs!  I really love the construction of these pants!!!

1. Sew short sides of cuffs together.  Press seam open.

2. Press a 1/2 in hem on one long edge of two of the cuffs.

3. If you are doing View A skip down to step 7, please.
If you are doing View B, fold the ruffle in half with right sides together.  Press.

4. Run a basting stitch the length of the ruffle.

5. Pull the threads so the ruffle is the same size as the cuff.  Pin ruffle onto raw edge of cuff facing.

6.I basted the ruffle in place, I'm bad about letting things move around on me.

7. Pin the unfolded edge to the cuff facing at the ruffled edge.  Stitch.

 

8. Pin all layers to bottom of pants.  Stitch.

 

9. Once the cuffs are attached to the pants, press the cuffs toward the right side.  Topstitch the cuffs in place.  Turn the cuffs up so the ruffle is at the top of the cuff.

C. Create the Waistband

1. Stitch the short end of the waistband together.  Press seam flat.

2. Create a hem.

3. Attach the waistband to the pants. Press the seam up toward the waistband.

4. Fold the waistband over to create a casing for the elastic.

5. Topstitch around the waistband being sure to leave an opening for the elastic.

6. Insert elastic and thread all the way through the waistband.

7. Secure elastic together at the ends.

8. Close up the opening left to thread the elastic through.

Congratulations!!!  Your "little" has a new pair of comfy cozy PJ's.

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, December 17th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.
 

Sew-Along #20 - Sleepover Pajamas - Lesson #3

The Sleepover Pajamas by Oliver+S

Welcome to the Sleepover Pajama sew-along.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.  

NOTE: Please make sure you read over the Oliver+S instructions prior to starting this lesson.  We will be working on page 6-7 today.  You will need to keep these O+S instructions open and where you can read them as you go through the lesson.  The O+S instructions give a more thorough and detailed description of each step and will be necessary to complete these pajamas.

Today we will:

1. Prepare Neck Ruffle (View B)
2. Attach Facing
3. Buttons and Buttonholes

A. Prepare Neck Ruffle (Skip this section if you are not adding the ruffle.)

1. Attach the two short sides of the ruffle together.  Press seam open.

2. Fold in and press the short edge of the ruffle.

3. Fold the ruffle wrong sides together and press.  Run two gathering stitches along the curved edge side.

4. Gather the ruffle to measure the same size as the facing from the bottom of the right side to the curved neckline of the left side.  Pin and attach the ruffle to the facing matching the raw edges.

Note: Basting the ruffle to the facing will help to keep everything together and from slipping while attaching to the pajama top.

B. Attaching the Facing

1. Pin the right side of the facing to the wrong side of the pajama top all the way around.  The raw edges of the facing and top should be lined up.  Be sure the facing hangs off the pajama top front at the hemline.  Stitch the facing onto the pj top.

2. Clip the curved edge of the facing, right up to the stitch line.  Be sure not to clip through the stitching.  I like to use pinking shears on all curved hems first and then clip.

3. Press the facing flat and prepare for topstitching.  Press the bottom edge of the facing up toward the top and even with the hem.

4. Topstitch all the way around the facing.

Topstitched

C. Buttons and Buttonholes 

1. Transfer markings onto the facing pieces.  I use the button as a guide to be sure that my button holes are big enough.  I mark on either side of the button and am sure to stitch all the way from marking to marking.  Buttonholes for girls go on the right and for boys on the left.  Sew buttonholes.

2. Cutting the buttonholes can be scary.  I have a little trick to help me not cut all the way through the other side of the buttonhole.  Insert the seam ripper into one end of the buttonhole but make it come out right in the center of the buttonhole.

3. I started on the right side, so I now insert the seam ripper into the left side and come out through the hole.  This helps me not cut through the buttonhole.  Another trick is to put a safety pin at the bottom of the buttonhole to prevent ripping all the way through.

4. Sew on the buttons.  I like to use a large needle as a spacer between my button and fabric.  If you sew the button on with the needle in place, it gives a little more space for the button to go through the buttonhole.

5. When you are ready to tie off, wrap the thread around the button several times.

6. Insert the needle under the thread.

7. Pull tight.

8. Repeat the tying process at least one more time.

We did some serious sewing today!  I hope to see you back here on Monday to work on the pants.

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, December 16th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Sew-Along #20 - Sleepover Pajamas - Lesson #2

The Sleepover Pajamas by Oliver+S

Welcome to the Sleepover Pajama sew-along.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.  

NOTE: Please make sure you read over the Oliver+S instructions prior to starting this lesson.  We will be working through page 6 today.  You will need to keep these O+S instructions open and where you can read them as you go through the lesson.  The O+S instructions give a more thorough and detailed description of each step and will be necessary to complete these pajamas.

Today we will:

1. Prepare the facing
2. Prepare the pockets
3. Assemble front and back bodice
4. Attach sleeves
5. Assemble and hem the top

A. Prepare the Facing

1. Fuse interfacing to front facing pieces.

2. Attach facing fronts to the facing back at the shoulder seams.  Press shoulder seams open.  Sew a basting stitch on the outside curved edge.  This will help create the hem later.

Note: Your back facing was most likely cut from the coordinate fabric, not flannel and will match your facing fronts.

3. Press the seam allowance along the outside of the facing.  Use the basting stitch as a guide to iron the hem.

 
B. Prepare the Pockets

1. Sew a basting stitch along the outside curved edge of the pockets.  Make sure to sew in that second row of basting stitches according to the pattern instructions.

2. Attach the pocket yoke to the top of the pocket with right sides together.

3. Press the seam allowance toward the pocket yoke.

4. Press the top edge of the pocket yoke to the wrong side.

5. Fold again to the right side.  Stitch the folded edge together.

6. Turn the pocket yoke right side out and press.

7. Pull up the second row of basting stitches to curve in the pocket according to the pattern instructions.

8. Edgestitch the seam to finish the front of the pocket yoke.

9. Pin the pockets to the pajama front pieces using the pocket placement guide.  (Here is one of those areas where you need to take your time to be sure the pockets line up with each other on both front pieces.  It will be very obvious if they don't line up.)

 
C. Assemble the Fronts and Backs

1. Attach fronts and back at the shoulder seams.

2. Either press seam open or finish seam.

  

D. Prepare and Attach the Sleeves

1. Sew a gathering stitch along the curved edge of the sleeve.

2. Attach the sleeve to the shoulder.  Pull the gathering stitch if necessary so the sleeve will fit properly.

3. Finish the seam.

4. Fold and press the bottom of the sleeve toward the wrong side 1/2 in and then again 2 in.  Do not sew in place.

  

E. Assemble and Hem the Top

1. Line up the side seams and stitch.  Make sure you have unfolded the sleeve hem.

2. Finish the seams.

3. Fold the bottom hem of the Pajama Top toward the wrong side 1/2 in and then again 1 in and iron.  Edgestitch the inner most fold.

4. Refold the sleeve hem and iron.

5. I like to turn the garment inside out and topstitch on the inside of the sleeve.  My sleeve does not fit over the arm of my sewing machine so I have to use this technique.

6. Turn up the sleeve to make the cuff and stitch in the ditch to secure it.

Come back tomorrow to work on the Ruffle, Facing, Buttons, and Buttonholes.

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, December 15th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.