Monday, July 29, 2013

Sew-Along #6 - Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts - Lesson #1

The Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts by Oliver+S


* If you need to see more detail in any of the pictures please click on them to enlarge.

Assembling your Map
All right, the gear is all ready... Now lets get that pattern put together.  I would say that putting together and cutting out the pattern is the hardest part... but that might be lying to you, and I promise now that I will try very hard to never lie to you!  This is probably my least favorite part; so put on some music, grab something yummy to drink, and power through!

First 
  1. First, you need to print the pattern pages (I print only the pattern pieces and then read the instructions off of my ipad or computer to save paper - but you can print the instructions as well) *Make sure your printer is set to scaling NONE or 100%.  Always always measure the test square and make sure it is the correct size before proceeding!
  2. Lay your paper face up in a stack and work from the top down, it just makes life easier.
  3. Unlike some PDF patterns, this pattern does not lay out in one large grid.  Instead, you just need to be looking for like letters.
  4. The great thing, is that they have given you a grid to help make sure everything lined up perfectly.
  5. Line up your papers with like letters touching (*it is best to trim the excess white off of one of the papers so you don't cover up any pattern markings) And tape in place.
  6. You can see that one segment of the pattern is missing.... if you look to the far left, you will find that missing corner!  Cut your pattern in the negative space.
  7. Flip the paper around and insert so that all the letters are together and facing the same direction.
  8.  Repeat for all of your pattern pieces.
  9. Now trace the pattern pieces in the size you have determined based on the measurement chart included in the pattern with a highlighter or colored pencil.  I am tracing an 18-24m. (* this will help make sure you are cutting the right line!)
  10.  Now cut out your colored line. (* I like to use a rotary cutter to quickly cut out all my sections, but you can use regular scissors).
Now that you have all your pattern pieces cut, it is time for your fabric!!!

*If you are using matching fabric leg facings, keep reading - if you are using contrasting leg facings, scroll down to the break where the pink and red fabric shows up.

If you are using a kit, you will have received a package that looks something like this(including your interfacing and elastic).
FABRIC A                                                    FABRIC B

  1. Gather your pattern pieces for the top and put them with fabric A.  Gather the pieces for the shorts and put them with fabric B.
  2. Lay out your pieces according to the grain line (the line with arrows - should follow the direction of your print).
  3. For the Top - the neck bindings are on the bias, so your pattern piece will be at a diagonal across your the directional pattern of your fabric.
  4. Cut out your pattern pieces (* if you cut with a rotary cutter, use weights; if you cut with scissors, use pins or weights to hold your paper pieces in place).
  5. For the Shorts waistband, you need to cut your fabric on the fold.  You will also cut one piece of interfacing.


    Lay one of your front waist band sections with the interfacing so that they stay together.
  6. Once you have all the pieces cut, you need to mark your notches. (I like to use a small pair of sharp scissors)
  7. Make sure you cut all the notches on each piece (these designate front and back, top and bottom, where to attach other pieces, etc... don't be tempted to take a short cut through the woods and skip this step!!!)

    I like to mark my notches with just a slit through the center of the triangle - easy and saves time.
  8. Now that all your pieces are cut and your notches are marked, make one stack of Top pieces and one stack of Bottom pieces (leave the paper pattern sandwiched between the layers of fabric - you'll thank me latter)
Now go take a break... and get ready to come back for the next lesson and SEW!!!!

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*This is for everyone sewing with contrasting leg facings.
  1. Gather your pattern pieces for the top and put them with fabric B.  Gather the pieces for the shorts and put them with fabric A or B based on what is written on the pattern piece.
    The red is Fabric A, the pink is Fabric B.
  2. Lay out your pieces according to the grain line (the line with arrows - should follow the direction of your print).
  3. For the Top - the neck bindings are on the bias, so your pattern piece will be at a diagonal across your the directional pattern of your fabric.
    Imagine this is the PINK/B fabric.
  4. Cut out your pattern pieces (* if you cut with a rotary cutter, use weights; if you cut with scissors, use pins or weights to hold your paper pieces in place).
  5. For the Shorts waistband, you need to cut your fabric on the fold.  You will cut one Front waistband of Side A, and you will cut one front waistband of side B and interfacing.

    Lay your interfacing with your B fabric front waistband and set to the side.

  6. Once you have all the pieces cut, you need to mark your notches. (I like to use a small pair of sharp scissors.
  7. Make sure you cut all the notches on each piece (these designate front and back, top and bottom, where to attach other pieces, etc... don't be tempted to take a short cut through the woods and skip this step!!!)

    I like to mark my notches with just a slit through the center of the triangle - easy and saves time.
  8. Now that all your pieces are cut and your notches are marked, make one stack of Top pieces and one stack of Shorts pieces (leave the paper pattern sandwiched between the layers of fabric - you'll thank me latter).
Now go take a break... and get ready to come back for the next lesson and SEW!!!!

Suzanne

2 comments:

  1. For step #3 are your selvages together? That isn't the way my dolls are facing when my selvages are together...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You can cut your bias either direction for step #3 (it is in an internal casing that will not be seen) Whether you place it on the horizontal grain line or the vertical grain line will not affect your finished product. *So, yes, if you match it to the direction of your other pattern piece grain lines (vertical)your fabric pattern will be going the opposite direction ;o)

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