Thursday, August 1, 2013

Sew-Along #6 - Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts - Lesson #2

The Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts by Oliver+S

* If you need to see more detail in any of the pictures please click on them to enlarge.

Today we actually get to sew!!!  Wohooo - this is my favorite part of the process, putting needle and thread to fabric and seeing a new creation emerge!

We are going to be going through the yoke prep and attachment to the front and back. You are going to want to make sure you go plug in your iron - it is going to play an integral part in the entire construction starting today!

Prepping your Yoke
  1. You should have 2 front and 2 back yolk pieces.  Lay them out on your work surface. Right now there is no differentiation between the 2 fronts and the 2 backs, but that is about to change.

  2. Take one of the front yolks and sew a basting stitch (long stitch) 1/2 from the bottom edge (the longer curve with 3 notches.

  3. Press the bottom edge up along the basting line towards the wrong side *From this point on, this is your FRONT YOKE the other will be your FRONT YOKE FACING.
  4. Put your two fronts together with Right Sides Together (RST) and pin along the short top curve.

  5.  Sew this edge with a 1/2 seam allowance.

  6. Trim your seam allowance to 1/4.

  7. Clip the curve (when you 'clip' you cut from the edge towards the stitching line, do not cut your stitches).

  8.  Lay the fabric open with the seam in the middle with the wrong side facing up.
  9. Press the Seam allowance towards the Front Yolk Facing (side without the pressed edge).


  11. Now you are going to 'Edgestitch' (this is simply saying stitch as close to the edge as you feel comfortable) the seam allowance to the Front Yolk Facing.  (WHY?  You may be familiar with top stitching around a neckline to make sure that the lining or facing does not show to the outside.  Well, this is another way of doing that without having any stitching visible from the outside of the garment.  It is a very pretty and very professional finish, and once you start doing it, you may not ever want to finish your garments any other way!!!)
    I line up the inside edge of the left prong with the seam (this is 1/8 on my machine).

    You can now see the stitching on the right (facing) and no stitching on the left (front).

  12. Fold your Yokes Right Side Out along the seam and press well with your iron. (Use a good amount of steam for a crisp edge).


Attaching the Blouse
*This is a great place to add trim if you'd like.
  1. Take your main blouse sections (You have two identical pieces) and lay them on your work space.
  2. Sew a gathering stitch (long stitch with low tension, make sure to leave long tails for pulling) 3/8 from the top edge on one piece.

  3. Sew another gathering stitch 5/8 from the top of the same piece.

  4. Take one of your Yokes

  5. Pin the unturned edge of the Yoke Facing to the top edge of the blouse front (pin just the outer edges).

  6. Pull the bottom threads of your gathering stitches to make the blouse front match the Yoke.

  7. Once they are the same size pin the rest of the unfinished edge.

  8. Sew this edge with a 1/2 seam (you will be sewing in between your two rows of gathering stitches).
  9. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4.

  10. Press the seam allowance up towards the Yoke.

  11. Flip your Yoke Front down and pin the turned edge so that it covered the seam you just sewed (it will not cover your second gathering stitch)

    I find it helpful to press again here to make sure everything is crisp and laying flat.

    Pin your front pressed edge in place.

  12. Edge Stitch along the fold.

  13. Press again to make sure it all lays perfectly flat (I find it best to press up from the bottom the the Yoke towards the neckline).

  14. Clip the little corners of your seam allowance.


There you go - we are done for the day!!!  Not too bad right... I think all the ironing breaks up the flow of sewing, but it really does make sure you have crisp clean edges and that things line up right.  

Have any questions???  Just ask here or in the Facebook Group - and don't forget to load your images of your progress to win a PRIZE: the Penny Pattern by Modkid!!!!  There are prizes for each day of the sew along, so make sure to upload those images!


No comments:

Post a Comment

#navbar-iframe{ display:none !important;}