Friday, July 12, 2013

Sew-Along #5 - Naomi Dress - Lesson #2

The Naomi Dress by Modkid

Welcome to Day Two of the Sew Along!

Let’s see who is our lucky winner from Lesson #1 is!

Congratulations to Kristen Carraway!

Now, let’s get down to business. The first step we are going to tackle today is the pocket. One important thing about the pocket is that the construction is done with a 1/4" seam allowance, rather than the 1/2" allowance we have been using.

To construct the pocket, first we need to make the ruffle. Using the 2-inch strip, fold the strip in half, right sides together.

Then stitch a seam on both ends ONLY, using a 1/4” seam allowance.
I seemed to have gained a little sewing helper since last night!
I hope Belle likes to sew!

Then turn the strip right side out and push out the corners using your point turner, chopstick or other tool. Press the strip in half lengthwise.

Using a long stitch length, run a stitch along the open edge of the folded strip. You will want it to be just shy of a 1/4” so that it does not show when you sew it into the seam. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end of this stitch, this will be the gathering thread.

Pulling on the bobbin thread, gently gather the strip of fabric. I like to gather from one end to about half way down the strip, then gather from the other end. This way I do not accidentally pull my gather off of the other end (NOT that I’ve ever done that!)

Once the entire length is gathered, do a quick measurement around the edge of the pocket to see if you need to gather more or less.

Once your length is good, start pinning the ruffle along the edge of the pocket, starting with the top ruffle edge 1/4” from the top of the pocket edge and with the unfinished edges of the pocket and ruffle aligned (ruffle facing inwards).

Pin with gusto!

Run a basting stitch along the edge of the ruffle, to hold it in place. Then place the second pocket piece, right sides together, onto the top.

Stitch the pieces together using a 1/4” seam allowance.
Ruffle sandwich!

I clipped the curves on the pocket to reduce the bulk.

Then turn the pocket right sides out, using your turning tool to smooth around the seams. And iron, iron, iron!

At the top, you will want to turn under a 1/4” seam.

Then, top stitch the edge closed, staying close to the top edge. Top stitch another line about 3/8” below the first line of stitching. (I am not sure why I didn’t take a picture of that, but you can scroll down to the next step to see what it looks like.)

Once the pocket is created, we will need to attach it to the skirt. I did not mark my pocket location onto the skirt front. Instead I used my pattern piece and laid it under the front piece to determine the placement.
Is your fabric pattern directional? Make sure it is going the right way! No upside down ladybugs and bees for this dress!

Using the pattern piece as a guide, I pinned the pocket to the front skirt piece. You could also use a water soluble pen or tracing wheel to mark the pocket location.

Once the pocket is in place and pinned, sew along the pocket edge to attach the pocket to the skirt front, backstitching at the beginning and end.

Now that the pocket is attached, we are going to work on attaching the bodice to the skirt piece. The first thing we need to do is gather the skirt piece. Using a long stitch length, run two parallel stitches across the top of the skirt. (Do not backstitch on either end) These will be your gathering threads.

The next thing I like to do is to mark the center of the bodice and the center of the skirt with a pin, that way I can match them back up once I have finished gathering to keep the gathers nice and even across the front.

Now, pulling the two bobbin threads, gently gather the material towards the center. Again, I usually work from one end into the center, then go to the other end and work towards the center. You can use the bodice piece to determine when you have gathered enough.

Once you have the skirt piece gathered, flip the bodice down, right sides together, onto the skirt piece and match the center pins. Pin the center of the bodice and the skirt together.

Flipping the two pieces over, pin the bodice and the skirt together, evening out the gathers across the top to make sure they extend the length of the bodice and pinning in place.

Stitch the bodice and skirt together, using a 1/2” seam allowance. Then finish the seam with an overlock or zigzag stitch, or using a serger.

Once the seam is finished, press the seam allowance towards the bodice, pulling gently on the skirt as you press to make sure the seam is nice and flat.

Then topstitch the seam in place, about 1/8” above the seam.

And we are done for day 2 of the sew along!
See, wasn’t so bad compared to the last one, right?


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