Sew-Along #6 - Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts - Lesson #1

The Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts by Oliver+S


* If you need to see more detail in any of the pictures please click on them to enlarge.

Assembling your Map

All right, the gear is all ready... Now lets get that pattern put together.  I would say that putting together and cutting out the pattern is the hardest part... but that might be lying to you, and I promise now that I will try very hard to never lie to you!  This is probably my least favorite part; so put on some music, grab something yummy to drink, and power through!

First 

1. First, you need to print the pattern pages (I print only the pattern pieces and then read the instructions off of my ipad or computer to save paper - but you can print the instructions as well) *Make sure your printer is set to scaling NONE or 100%.  Always always measure the test square and make sure it is the correct size before proceeding!
2. Lay your paper face up in a stack and work from the top down, it just makes life easier.
3. Unlike some PDF patterns, this pattern does not lay out in one large grid.  Instead, you just need to be looking for like letters.
4. The great thing, is that they have given you a grid to help make sure everything lined up perfectly.
5. Line up your papers with like letters touching (*it is best to trim the excess white off of one of the papers so you don't cover up any pattern markings) And tape in place.
   
6. You can see that one segment of the pattern is missing.... if you look to the far left, you will find that missing corner!  Cut your pattern in the negative space.
   
7. Flip the paper around and insert so that all the letters are together and facing the same direction.
   
8.  Repeat for all of your pattern pieces.
9. Now trace the pattern pieces in the size you have determined based on the measurement chart included in the pattern with a highlighter or colored pencil.  I am tracing an 18-24m. (* this will help make sure you are cutting the right line!)
   
10.  Now cut out your colored line. (* I like to use a rotary cutter to quickly cut out all my sections, but you can use regular scissors).

Now that you have all your pattern pieces cut, it is time for your fabric!!!

*If you are using matching fabric leg facings, keep reading - if you are using contrasting leg facings, scroll down to the break where the pink and red fabric shows up.

If you are using a kit, you will have received a package that looks something like this(including your interfacing and elastic).

FABRIC A                                                    FABRIC B

1. Gather your pattern pieces for the top and put them with fabric A.  Gather the pieces for the shorts and put them with fabric B.
2. Lay out your pieces according to the grain line (the line with arrows - should follow the direction of your print).
   
3. For the Top - the neck bindings are on the bias, so your pattern piece will be at a diagonal across your the directional pattern of your fabric.
   
4. Cut out your pattern pieces (* if you cut with a rotary cutter, use weights; if you cut with scissors, use pins or weights to hold your paper pieces in place).
   
5. For the Shorts waistband, you need to cut your fabric on the fold.  You will also cut one piece of interfacing.
   
   
   
   
   
   

   

   Lay one of your front waist band sections with the interfacing so that they stay together.

6. Once you have all the pieces cut, you need to mark your notches. (I like to use a small pair of sharp scissors)
   
7. Make sure you cut all the notches on each piece (these designate front and back, top and bottom, where to attach other pieces, etc... don't be tempted to take a short cut through the woods and skip this step!!!)
   
   
   

   

   I like to mark my notches with just a slit through the center of the triangle - easy and saves time.

8. Now that all your pieces are cut and your notches are marked, make one stack of Top pieces and one stack of Bottom pieces (leave the paper pattern sandwiched between the layers of fabric - you'll thank me latter)

Now go take a break... and get ready to come back for the next lesson and SEW!!!!

--------------------------------------

*This is for everyone sewing with contrasting leg facings.

1. Gather your pattern pieces for the top and put them with fabric B.  Gather the pieces for the shorts and put them with fabric A or B based on what is written on the pattern piece.

   

   The red is Fabric A, the pink is Fabric B.

2. Lay out your pieces according to the grain line (the line with arrows - should follow the direction of your print).
   
3. For the Top - the neck bindings are on the bias, so your pattern piece will be at a diagonal across your the directional pattern of your fabric.

   

   Imagine this is the PINK/B fabric.

4. Cut out your pattern pieces (* if you cut with a rotary cutter, use weights; if you cut with scissors, use pins or weights to hold your paper pieces in place).
   
5. For the Shorts waistband, you need to cut your fabric on the fold.  You will cut one Front waistband of Side A, and you will cut one front waistband of side B and interfacing.
   
   
   

   

   Lay your interfacing with your B fabric front waistband and set to the side.

   
   
6. Once you have all the pieces cut, you need to mark your notches. (I like to use a small pair of sharp scissors.
7. Make sure you cut all the notches on each piece (these designate front and back, top and bottom, where to attach other pieces, etc... don't be tempted to take a short cut through the woods and skip this step!!!)
   
   
   

   

   I like to mark my notches with just a slit through the center of the triangle - easy and saves time.

8. Now that all your pieces are cut and your notches are marked, make one stack of Top pieces and one stack of Shorts pieces (leave the paper pattern sandwiched between the layers of fabric - you'll thank me latter).

Now go take a break... and get ready to come back for the next lesson and SEW!!!!

Suzanne

Sew-Along #6 - Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts - Preparations

The Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts by Oliver+S

 Are you getting excited???  Think of me as your handy-dandy trail guide, leading you on the adventure through the wonderful world of the Oliver & S Class Picnic Outfit.  If you are a first timer to Oliver & S patters and you are reading through the instructions, you may at this point be excited AND scared.  But never fear, I'll help you through every possible twist and turn along the way.  But FIRST, we need to make sure we have all our gear in order!

Items to Collect

1. If you have not purchased the pattern yet, please do so ASAP.  You may purchase it from our shoppe by clicking here.
2. If you do not have fabric for the project you will want to purchase that ASAP also.  At the time of this writing we do have a few fabric kits for this project left.  Click here to see the project kits.  We also have lots of fun fabric selections on our website.  On the pattern link listed above you are able to click on the picture of the back of the pattern to enlarge it so you can view how much fabric you need for the project. We are making both the top and shorts in this sew along, but you can chose to do either or both.  I will also be showing you how to do the shorts with a matching or contrasting leg facing.
3. You will need two sizes of elastic; 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch and fusible interfacing.  If you purchased a kit it did come with all of these items.
4. You will also need coordinating thread to complete this project.  The project kits did not come with thread, so please make sure you have some.  There is quite a bit of top/edge stitching in this project so you will need to consider if you want your stitching to disappear (pick a thread that matches your fabric) or if you want to make it POP (chose a contrasting thread).
5. You will want some sort of fabric marking instrument.  You can use chalk, a marking pencil, washable fabric pen; even a bar of soap will work. *I'm a fan of the disappearing ink pen.
6. And you will need tape for putting your pattern pieces together.
   

Optional Items to Collect - The following items are totally optional.  These are items I use because I feel they make sewing easier for me.  You will see me using them in the sew-along, but by no means do you need these items to complete the project.

1. A  seam presser (or chopstick or dull butter knife) - this will help you turn and press crisp corners and seam edges.  It is particularly handy when doing the curved leg facings of the shorts!
   
2. A slide rule/sewing gauge.  These little gadgets are so handy for marking hems and any other area that require a steady measure... and believe me, there are quite a few in this pattern! 
   
3. Ric-rac, ribbon, or trim for decorating the tunic and or shorts. 
4. Highlighter or colored pencil.

Things to Do

1. Make sure to prewash and preshrink all of your fabrics.  I always wash my quilting cottons in hot (or just warm if the colors are very deep and I fear color fade) and then I dry my fabric in the dryer with no softeners.  I always preshrink this way when I am using fabric for clothing construction.  I would hate to work hard on something only to have it shrink and not fit when I was done.

   Note: Please make sure to ALWAYS preshrink your fusible interfacing.  If you don't, it may shrink up when you wash your creation.  This will make your fabric look wrinkled and wavy.  It can also become wrinkled and wavy due to shrinkage just by using steam when you press.  To preshrink your interfacing you will need to soak it for 5 minutes or so in very warm water.  You don't want the water too hot to avoid removing the iron on finish, but you do want it warm enough to shrink the interfacing.  After soaking, just pat it with a clean towel and hang it to dry.

2. Press your fabrics well.  I try to do this straight out of the dryer so that the wrinkles come out easier.  Fold up your fabric and set it aside for Monday's lesson.
3. If you haven't already, join our Facebook Sew-Along Group so you can post your progress pictures and be entered for a chance to win the fabulous prizes listed below!

Prizes
We are giving away over $200 worth of prizes during this Sew-Along.  To enter join our Facebook Sew-Along Group.  Then, complete each lesson on time and post a photo of your project in the appropriate folder on the Facebook group.  We will give more details at the end of each lesson on where to post your photos and when they are due.

Happy Sewing,

Danielle Storm
www.whimsicalfabric.com

Sew-Along #6 - Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts - Meet Your Instructor

The Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts by Oliver+S

 

Hi All, I am  Suzanne and I blog over at Winter Wonderings... where I started sharing my sewing and crafting projects after baby girl was born.  Honestly, it started as a way to fill those middle of the night feeding hours, and then I was hooked.  I also have twin boys who just turned two in February - three toddlers two and under is quite a handful and an adventure all rolled into one.  If it wasn't for my amazingly supportive husband, Julian, I wouldn't be here at all.

 (yeah, they're cute enough to keep)

I learned the basics of sewing as a little girl from my mom, but I truly learned to CREATE in college.  I did costume design and learned not only the technical aspects of sewing, but also the freedom and creativity of design.  I am now a professional photographer and in my spare time,  I sew for my kids as a creative outlet and to give them wardrobes I could otherwise not afford.

I love the education, support, and encouragement I find in the on-line sewing community!  I am so excited to be here with you all to help lead this sew along. 

If you have questions along the way, feel free to ask and we will work through them together.  Is it time to start yet?!?!?!?

Suzanne

Note: Sew-Along #6, Class Picnic Blouse + Shorts, begins July 29th.  If you would like to join us and need to purchase a pattern or a fabric kit you can do that here.  

Sew-Along #5 - Naomi Dress - Lesson #4

The Naomi Dress by Modkid

Welcome to Day Four of the Sew Along!

The lucky winner from Lesson #3's is... 

Congratulations Megan Cheatham!

And even if you weren’t the winner, we all win today because we are at the home stretch! Just a few steps to go and we will be done!
 
We are going to start right where we left off in the last day of the sew along; the back dress panel.
 
Helpful Hint: If you would like to see any of the images in more detail just click on them to enlarge.

Using the measurements in the pattern, cut your elastic to the length indicated for your size. Now, you will need to thread the elastic through the casing you created. I have a set of elastic threaders, but find a large safety pin works just as well and I can use the same one for all sizes of elastic. I attach the safety pin to the end of the elastic and insert it into the casing. 

Then thread the safety pin through the casing. 

When I get to the point that my end is getting to the edge of the casing, I pin the elastic to the end so that it doesn’t get sucked inside the casing. 

Once the elastic is pinned in place, continue working the elastic through the casing and out the other side.

When it is all the way through, remove the safety pin and pin the elastic into place. Then baste along each edge to hold the elastic in place.

Now, lay the dress back on your working surface, right side up.

Grab the dress top and place it right side down on top of the back, matching the side seams.

Pin the side seams together and sew each side using a 1/2” seam allowance and backstitching at the beginning and end.

I put a pin inside of the back seam to help hold the back flush, since the shirring will make it want to pucker up there.

Once the seam is sewn on both sides, finish the seams with an overlock or zigzag stitch or a serger.

Then press the seams flat and topstitch along the seam.

Once the side seams are sewn and finished, we will move on to the ruffle.

Using the two remaining strips of fabric, you will want to place them right sides together and sew along one short end, finishing the seam.

I find it easier to hem the ruffle before I sew the other end together. You can hem by ironing a 1/4” fold onto the edge of the fabric. Then, turning it up again, iron the hem flat. Sew a stitch the entire length of the hem to finish it.

You can also use a narrow hem foot if you have one.

Love this little guy!

This is how you do a narrow hem with the foot:
 
Put the hemming foot on the machine.

Now fold your fabric edge over twice, just like you would if you were folding it to iron and hem. Your fabric should be wrong side up, with the folded hem on the right hand side (like the picture).

Now, with the hemmer foot lifted, place the folded fabric under the foot. Lower the hemmer foot and sew a couple of stitches to get the hem started, using the hemmer foot just like a regular foot at this point.

Once the first few stitches are in to get the hem started, make sure the needle is in the down position (through your fabric) and lift the presser foot.

Lift the folded piece up and around the loop on the hemmer foot, wrapping it around metal prong.

Lower the presser foot and start sewing. As I sew, I hold the fabric up and steady, guiding it along so it feeds nicely through the foot as it sews.

And voila! 88” of hemmed ruffle in about 3 minutes with no burnt finger tips! Did I mention that I LOVE my narrow hemming foot?

If you need a more visual reference, this is another good place to consult youtube. Watch a few in action and you will get it right away!

Okay, regardless of the technique you chose to hem your ruffle piece, you should have it done by now. So sew up the second side of the ruffle (you will have a big loop) and let’s get gathering!
 
There are many ways to gather, I used my serger (4 thread; tension on the needles up to 8; differential feed on 2; stitch length at its longest) to gather mine. Some sewing machines will also gather if you set the stitch length the the longest length and the tension to the highest setting; then sew along and the machine gathers for you . My machine will not do that. But if yours will, DO IT, it’s genius!
 
If you don’t have a serger and cannot (or don’t want to) use the long stitch/high tension method, you can also gather the same way we did the skirt front and pocket ruffle. Simply run two parallel basting stitches along the entire long (unhemmed) edge of the ruffle piece; do not back stitch at either end. Then, working from each end and into the middle, gather the fabric towards the center. Continue gathering until your ruffle piece is the same size as your skirt bottom.

Once your piece is all gathered, we need to apply the ruffle to the bottom of the dress. Matching the gathered edge of the ruffle and the unfinished edge of the dress, pin the ruffle to the dress, right sides together.

Work your way all the way around the skirt, pinning and matching as you go. If your ruffle is too short or too long, you can adjust your gather as you work your way around.

Once the ruffle is pinned and adjusted, sew the ruffle to the dress bottom using a 1/2” seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and the end of the seam.

When applying a gathered ruffle, sometimes it can get “bunchy” under your presser foot. As I am sewing, I try to smooth those out by stopping with the needle in the down position.

Then I lift the presser foot and adjust the gathered fabric so it is back in line and not folding or bunching.

Then lower the presser foot and keep on sewing!

Once the entire ruffle is applied, finish the seam with a overlock or zigzag stitch or serger. Then press the seam up towards the skirt and topstitch along the seam.

We are so close to being done, one last step!   

Okay, last thing; sewing on the buttons. One confession I did not make up front is that I loathe hand sewing. So I leave the buttons until the end. But, nothing else to procrastinate for, so here we go!

I used my multi-use point-turning/button gauge (which has paint on it from some non-sewing related usage at some point in the past) to mark the center of my pocket with a pin.

Then I applied the button to the center.

I like to sew three or four loops through the button and then tie it off. I tie it off by running my needle under the stitching on the back...

...then forming a loop and threading the needle back into the loop.

 
Pull it tight and you have a nice little knot.

See those little feet? They have now stripped off their clothes and are chanting “try my dress, try my dress!” as I sew on the buttons. It’s nice to have a cheering section in the last push to finish a project :)

Once you have tied off the pocket button, apply the buttons to the bodice in the same manner.
 
And now you are done! Go! Try that dress on a little body! It’s the perfect dancing dress.

 

Thanks so much for joining me on my first sew along! I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did! See you again soon, 

Sarah