Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Sew-Along #23 - Addison and Addison Mini Dress - Lesson #1

The Addison and Addison Mini Dresses by Modkid

I hope you had as much fun sewing the Art Museum Vest and Trousers as I did! It is a wonderful pattern! Now on to our Easter Sew-Along for girls! This dress is not only perfect for Easter but also for any special event. Even better that it has a matching doll dress too. My daughter is all about her and her dolls matching. 
NOTE: Please read through both patterns directions for this sew-along. You will need them as well and keep your pattern handy while sewing both dresses. Also the girl size has  a 1/2" seam allowance and the doll has a different seam allowance of a 1/4".  
If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger that are posted in this blog, just click on them to enlarge. 

Let's get started!!

What Size to Make?

On the back of the pattern there is a size chart but there is a first released pattern and a newer updated pattern. The first released pattern cover looks like this one.

The second released pattern cover looks like this one. 

The size chart is correct on the second, newer released pattern, but is incorrect on the original (mustard background) pattern.  Below is the correct sizing chart.

Also the first released pattern bodice is an inch more narrow than the newer printed pattern. Which ever copy you have they are both the same great pattern and instructions! 

Tracing the Pattern:
  1. This is a paper pattern so we want to trace it out to keep the original pattern for future sizes we will want make. Take the paper pattern and lay it out flat on a large surface. You can use freezer paper, tracing paper or tissue paper. For all my smaller size girl and doll clothes I prefer the tissue paper. You can find it in the gift section at the any store. If the pattern piece is larger, like that of the skirt in this pattern, I tape together two pieces of the tissue paper to make it large enough to trace the pattern piece on.
  2. Find the size you will need to make. Find your right size on the pattern and lay the tracing paper over it, making sure that the tracing paper covers the whole area needing to be traced. All the lines on the pattern are different dots and dashes to make tracing the right size easier. I use my quilting ruler to keep those straight edges nice and straight.
  3. Be sure also to copy all the pattern markings as well (button placement, button holes, tab placement and notches). Do this for both the girl and doll sized patterns. 
  4. For the skirt I traced it twice, one marked with the tabs and 1" shorter for the over skirt and the second full length for the underskirt. This way I do not have to trim the 1" off of my pattern piece to cut out the over skirt and I have two separate pieces for each skirt. I think it is just easier this way.
    Here is the over skirt pattern piece with the 1" "shorter" line marked for cutting.

Cutting the Pattern Pieces: 

*If using fabric from the Littlest line, please make sure to read the note from Suzanne below.

Now onto cutting both of the dresses! For both girl and doll dresses you need to cut the following in the main color fabric. If you have a fabric that has a one way direction, be careful to cut each piece with the top of the fabric with the top of the pattern pieces.
  • the front and back bodice pieces.
  • the lining front and back bodice pieces.
  • the sleeves
  • the over skirt.

For the contrasting fabric cut out the following pattern pieces for both girl and doll.  For the Littlest fabrics you will want to cut the girl's underskirt out of the border, but the remaining pieces should be cut from the rest of the border print fabric.  * Please make sure to read the note regarding the Littlest fabric from Suzanne below.
  • sleeve bands
  • sash
  • waist band
  • skirt tabs
  • under skirt

Cut out interfacing pieces
  • one waist band piece
  • two tabs pieces
  • two button interfacing pieces

    Here is everything cut out!

Note from Suzanne: If you are using the Littlest fabrics please read.
Hi all, so you have chosen the gorgeous Art Gallery Boarder print from Littlest to use for your underskirt of the Addison.  We want to make sure we show off that beautiful print so we are going to make a couple simple alterations as we cut to ensure that happens!
First: When you cut your under-layer, line up your pattern and cut along the top of the grass line of your boarder print, not along the bottom edge of the fabric. We want those pretty flowers to show!
Second: When you cut your Top Skirt, cut it 2 inches shorter than your bottom skirt rather than just one.  You are then going to do a 2 inch hem on the top skirt.
Voila, a gorgeous boarder print that shows off for all the world to see.
Let me know if you have any questions and come back tomorrow for lesson 2 to start sewing on the girl's dress!!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT,
Friday, March 27th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.


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