Thursday, July 31, 2014

Sew-Along #16 - Hippy Chick Skirt - Lesson #3

The Hippy Chick Skirt

Today is day three of the Hippy Chick Skirt sew-along.  It's our final day!  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps. 

Day 3 - Adding the Hemband and the Waistband.

You finished the skirt panel yesterday and today we are going to put the rest of the pieces together.  By the end of this lesson you will have a brand new skirt!

Creating and Attaching the Hemband
1. Lay out your two hemband pieces right sides together.  Match up the ends.

2. Pin them together.

3. Stitch both ends using a ¼" seam allowance.  This will create one long loop, or band.

4. Press the seams open.

5. Fold the band in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.  Press.  Find the center front, center back, and two sides of your hemband.  Mark with a fabric pen.  

6. Lay out your skirt panel and determine where you would like your "center".  Mark your center front, center back, and two side seams of your skirt panel with a fabric marker.  Mark these on both the top and bottom of the skirt panel.  This will come in handy when attaching the hemband, gathering the skirt panel, and attaching the waistband.

7. Locate the two side seams on your hemband.  Match those up with your skirt panel side seams.  With right side together and matching up raw edges, pin your hemband to your skirt panel.  Make sure your center fronts and center backs also match up.

8. If you have thread tails from serging, make sure those are not caught between the skirt panel and hemband.  

9. It's a good idea to place a pin at each of the skirt panel seams.  This will help you remember to pull out the thread tails so they do not get caught in your stitching.

10. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch the hemband to the skirt panel.  Don't forget to pull out those thread tails so they don't get caught up in the seam.

11. Finish your seams (overlock or zigzag) making sure to trim of those thread tails if you have them.

12. Press your hemband seam towards the top of your skirt.

13. If you used a serger for your hemband tuck the thread tail under the seam.

14. Top stitch the hemband seam.  Stitch on the skirt panel 1/8 inch away from the seam.  Don't forget to lengthen your stitch for a more professional look.

Creating the Waistband
15. Grab your waistband. With right sides together match up the two short ends.  Pin.

16. Stitch using a ¼" seam allowance.

17. Finish the seam.

 18. Press the seam to one side.
Note: If you purchased a kit from us you have ¾" wide elastic.  Follow our directions for folding the casing.  If you purchased and are using 1" wide elastic follow the directions found in your pattern.
19. Fold the top edge of your waistband down ½" and press well.  I love my Dritz Ezy-Hem Gauge. (affiliate link)

20. Fold down another 1¼" and press well.

21. Top stitch the bottom edge of your casing.  It's easiest to stitch on the underside so that you have the edge of your fabric as a guide.  Lengthen your stitch and stitch 1/8" from the edge.  Make sure to leave a 1" opening in the center back so that you can insert your elastic later.

22. Flip your waistband over and stitch 1/8" from the top edge.

23. Find the center front, center back, and two sides of your waistband.  Mark with a fabric pen. 

Gathering the Skirt Panel

24. Lengthen your stitch to as long as your machine will go.  Mine will go to 5.

25. Pull out some excess thread from both the bobbin and the needle.

26. Stitch 1/8" from the edge of the top of the skirt panel.  Start and stop at each quarter marking you made earlier.  Do not back stitch.  Make sure to leave long thread tails each time your start and stop.  Stitch a second row just a hair shy of 1/8" from the first row of stitches. (I don't have a picture of this from my skirt, but this is what the stitching should look like.)

27. Carefully pull up the bobbin threads in each quadrant, gathering your skirt panel.  Go slowly and carefully, especially when gathering the seams.

28. With right sides together match up the raw edges of the skirt panel with the raw edges of the waistband.  Make sure to match up to the center front, center back, and two side seams on both the skirt panel and waistband.  Pin.

29. Even out the gathers carefully.  Pin well all around the whole skirt top.  Again, if you have thread tails, make sure to pull them out and not have them caught in the seam.

30. Using a ¼" seam allowance stitch the skirt panel to the waistband.  Make sure to straighten your skirt as you go and that your excess fabric is not caught up in the seam.

31. VERY CAREFULLY finish the waistband seam.  If you are serging the seam, be careful not to catch any of the rest of the skirt while you are sewing.  Trim off those thread tails as you go.

32. Turn your skirt inside out and press the seam up towards the top of your skirt.

33. Top stitch the waistband 1/8" from the seam.  Remember to lengthen you stitches.


34.  The instructions say to cut your elastic ½-1" shorter than the waist measurement.  I usually find it better to cut it 2" shorter.  You decide.  If you go with the longer length and find it not tight enough, you can always make it shorter.  Using a safety pin insert your elastic into the casing.

35. Overlap your elastic ends and stitch together.  I stitch an X with a box around it when I sew my elastic together.

36. It's a good idea to stitch down the width of the elastic on your side seams.  You can also do it in the back.  This will help keep your elastic from twisting in the casing when worn.

You did it!  Congratulations.  Now go show all your friends the awesome skirt you just made!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed skirt to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, August 4th.  I've given you some extra time since this lesson is a bit longer. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thanks for sewing with me,
Danielle Storm

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