Thursday, May 29, 2014

Sew-Along #14 - Frannie Dress - Lesson #3

The Frannie Dress

Welcome to the Frannie Dress sew-along.  I want to remind everyone that I am not a "professional" seamstress, nor was I formally taught.  I'm just a girl who loves fabric, sewing, and pretty much everything related to those two things.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Please read the directions in your Frannie Dress pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once before you begin also.

I also want to remind everyone that if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful on some steps.  Let's begin now.

Day 3 - Creating Underarm Casing & Ties, Adding Decorative Buttons, and Hemming.

1. Lay out your dress and pull the lining up through the neck opening.

2. We are going to create the casings for the underarm ties. Make sure to have your buttonholes marked.

3. Stitch the buttonholes.  Make sure you are only stitching through the dress.  Don't catch the lining in the buttonholes.  You will be creating four buttonholes total, two on each side. 

4. Carefully rip open your buttonholes.  I like to use a pin to keep me from ripping too far.

5. After you have sewn and ripped open all 4 buttonholes pull your lining back down.  Smooth out your lining and dress.  Match up the side seams of your lining and dress and pin together so nothing can slide around.

6. Start at one end and stitch along your top casing marking, through the side seam, and end on the other side.  Repeat for the bottom casing marking.  DO NOT stitch the casings closed at the ends yet!

7. Grab your four tie pieces.  Fold each tie in half lengthwise, with right sides together, lining up raw edges, and iron.

8. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch across one end and then down the length of each tie.  Trim off excess.

9. Turn each tie and then iron them flat.  I like to use a chopstick to press out my seam.

10. I also like to topstitch my ties.  I lengthen my stitch when I topstitch because I think it gives it a more professional look.

11. Use a safety pin or bodkin to thread your ties through the casings.  Place the pin (or bodkin) into the raw end of your tie.

12. Thread the tie through the buttonhole and up through the casing.

13. Keep going until you reach the end of the casing.

14. Smooth out your tie and make sure it isn't twisted in your casing.  Then, stitch across the ends.  I normally stitch, backstitch, then stitch again to make sure it is very secure.

15. Repeat for all four ties. 

16. Lay out your dress and decide how many decorative buttons you want to use and where you want to place them.  If you don't have a fold line down the center anymore you can make one with your iron to help with placement.

17. Use a marking pen if you have one to mark your button placement.

18. Cut small squares of your fusible interfacing.  You need them just the size of your buttons.  Fuse those onto the back of your front dress fabric where you will be placing your buttons.

19. I used some Wonder Tape on the back of my buttons to stick them on my dress.  I just might have a slight addiction to the stuff!

 20.  Stitch your buttons in place.
Note: If you are adding a ruffle to the hem of your dress you will want to add the ruffle now.  Follow the pattern insert directions to create a ruffle band.  Then, with right sides together and matching the raw edges, pin the ruffle band onto the hem of your dress fabric only.  I always baste around the ruffle about ⅛" from the edge, just like you did with the collar.  This way you can remove all the pins and they won't be in your way while you hem the dress.
21. We are now going to hem the dress.  Grab the dress and the lining at the bottom of the side seam that you left the opening in.

22. With your other hand reach into the hole in the side of the lining.

23. Carefully push/pull the side seam bottom edge you are holding up through the lining opening.  Be careful not to twist the fabrics.  Once through, you will need to let go slightly so you can flip each over placing right sides together.

24. Pin.

25. Don't forget to offset the lining a ¼" so when you turn the dress the lining will not peek out the bottom.

26. Continue to pull the dress hem through the lining opening, pinning as you go, until you reach the other side seam.

27. Stitch hem using a ¼" seam allowance. Trim your seam.

28.Repeat for the second half of the hem making sure not to get a twist in your fabrics.

If you need additional help on hemming the dress you can watch this video from Children's Corner.  Lezette does it a bit differently than I do, but it's the same results.  Take a peek.

29. Push your dress back through the hole in the lining.  Smooth out your dress and press well.  If you offset your lining you should see your dress fabric pull slightly to the inside of your dress.

You made it through lesson three.  You're doing fantastic!  Just one more day left and your Frannie will be complete.  Make sure to check back here on Monday for lesson four. 

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson three to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, June 2nd. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thanks for sewing with me,
Danielle Storm

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