Thursday, February 27, 2014

Sew-Along #12 - Olivia Top and Girly Skirt - Lesson #3

The Olivia Top and Girly Skirt 

Welcome to the Olivia Top and Girly Skirt sew-along.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure t o post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images larger, just click on them. 

** Please read the directions in your Olivia Top all the way through before you begin.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once also before you begin.**

Day 3 - Sewing the Top

Yesterday we finished the precious Girly Skirt.  Love that!  Today we will work on the Olivia Top and get very close to finishing the top. 

You should have the pattern pieces for the Olivia Top cut already.  Here is what you are starting with today:

  • Top front (1) and back (1) pieces cut on fold
  • 2 sleeves
  • Ruffle (optional)

The pattern directions explain how to attach the sides first and then the arms.  I am going to give a different technique for assembling the bodice and sleeves that I like to use.  It is so simple, it may just be cheating to do it this way.

Start with one front panel.  Place the sleeve on the bodice piece right sides together.  Match up the armhole curve on the bodice and the armhole curve on the sleeve.  Pin and attach.  

Now let's attach the sleeve to the bodice back. If you place the bodice pieces stacked on top of each other, right sides together, you can see where the sleeve needs to attach to the bodice back piece.  

Here are the bodice pieces, RST, and how the sleeves attach to the bodice. You will sew four seams to attach the sleeves. Each sleeve attaches to the front and back bodice pieces at the armhole seam.  Finish armhole seams.  Your top should look like the picture below.
Pin the side seams together.  Sew all the way from the sleeve to the bottom of the bodice.  Finish seams.  You should have an almost complete Olivia Top.

Let's work on the hem.  You have a couple of choices at this point.  You can make a rolled hem or finish the hem.  I chose to finish the hem on the neckline and sleeves.  If you roll hem, you will need to roll hem the neckline, sleeves and bodice bottom.

If you choose to finish the hem, continue on.  Use a handy fold guide to help get a consistent hem.  Start at the neckline and fold down a 1/4in and  iron, fold another 1/4in. and iron.  Do the same with the sleeve ends.

After the neckline and sleeve hems are ironed into a nice hemline, topstitch. Here is what your neckline and sleeves should look like.  If you choose to hem the bottom of the bodice, follow the same directions and skip the ruffle steps.

If you are making a bottom ruffle, roll hem the bottom edge of the ruffle. The thread can match the fabric color or contrast with the fabric.  As you can see, I chose a contrasting thread that coordinates with the fabric.

Gather the ruffle and make sure it matches the length of the bodice front or back.  Attach the ruffle to the bodice and finish seam.  Iron the seam up toward the bodice and topstitch on the bodice.  Here is what you should have completed at this point.  

We will shirr tomorrow so take a break tonight and go relax!  Tomorrow you will have a precious outfit that your "little" can wear all spring and summer.  If you are unsure about shirring, don't worry because I'll give you directions tomorrow.

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson to the Facebook Album by 8:00 AM CT, Friday, February 28th. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

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