Sew-Along #2 – Bella Pants - Lesson 1

The Bella Pants

Welcome to our second sew-along.  I want to remind everyone that I am not a "professional" seamstress, nor was I formally taught.  I'm just a girl who loves fabric, sewing, and pretty much everything related to those two things.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Please note that I will not be following the exact order of the pattern booklet. I do however encourage you to read the directions in your booklet all the way through before you begin.

I also want to remind everyone that if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog bigger, just click on them to enlarge.  It might be helpful on some steps.  Are we ready to begin?  I am!!  Here we go.

1. Tracing your pattern pieces.

If you took part in the first sew-along, you probably are already aware of my love affair with freezer paper.  I adore freezer paper!  I trace all of my patterns out on freezer paper any time I sew.

Fussy cut around your tissue pattern pieces, and then iron your pattern pieces to remove any wrinkles or creases.  Next, place the pattern pieces on a flat surface; lay the freezer paper on top with the glossy side down; and trace around the pattern.  I use a sharpie marker to trace. 

You should be able to see the pattern lines through the freezer paper.  If you are having trouble, you can always use a sharpie to darken the lines on the original pattern.  Make sure you have some scrap paper under your tissue pieces before you write on them with the sharpie, otherwise the sharpie will bleed through and be transferred to the surface below.

Make sure you transfer all markings to the freezer paper.  I also write all of the information I need on the freezer paper, such as pattern name, size, how many to cut, etc. 

Once you have traced all the tissue pattern pieces you need onto freezer paper, go ahead and cut them out.

2. Cutting Out Your Fabric

You should have already washed, dried, and pressed your fabric.  I'm going to have you press your fabric again to make sure you do not have any creases from it being folded.

Once you have finished pressing, it is time to iron on your freezer paper pattern piece.  Below is a list of what you will need to cut from your fabric.

Single Ruffle Pants		Double Ruffle Pants
2 Pant Fronts - Fabric A		2 Pant Fronts - Fabric A
2 Pant Backs - Fabric A		2 Pant Backs - Fabric A
2 Pockets - Fabric B		2 Pockets - Fabric B
2 Top Ruffles - Fabric A		2 Top Ruffles - Fabric B
		2 Bottom Ruffles - Fabric A

If you are using a print with a direction, such as the Fly A Kite line, you want to make sure you line up the pattern piece along the print, so it is straight and not upside down.  Please make sure when you iron the freezer paper onto the fabric that the glossy side is down, ie. the glossy side should be touching your fabric.

DO NOT touch the iron to the glossy side of your freezer paper! It will melt and make a mess of your iron.

Run the iron along the freezer paper until it is stuck to the fabric.  Once you are done use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out your fabric pieces.

3. Creating your pockets.

Take your two pocket pieces and carefully peel off the freezer paper.  Keep this freezer paper pattern piece, because you can use it over and over again.  

a. Using a Rolled Hem

With your serger set to a rolled hem stitch, stitch across the top of the pocket. 

b. Using a Traditional Hem

If you are not using a serger you can finish the edge with a zig-zag stitch, fold it under 1/4", and stitch to make a finished edge.  Or, you can fold under 1/4" and then fold under 1/4" again.  Then stitch to make a finished edge.

Finish the other three sides of your pocket pieces with either a narrow overlock stitch on your serger or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine.

 

a. Squared Pockets

Turn under the sides and bottom of your pockets 1/4" and press well.  I highly recommend using a few good shots of steam to make well defined fold lines. 

b. Rounded Pockets

I traced halfway around a cup to give me a guide.

I then stitched about a 1/4' away from my drawn line to give me a folding line.

I cut off some of the extra fabric around the corners and then notched the hill on each pocket.

Using my iron, I carefully folded in the sides of the pockets and pressed them into shape.

Now, taking your 1/4" elastic, cut two lengths 1" shorter than the top of your pockets.

Line up the elastic on the back side of your pocket, along the edge and about 1/2" from the top edge.  Pin into place.

Set a couple of stitches into the elastic.  Keeping your needle down, pull the elastic all the way to the other side of the pocket.  Carefully stitch the elastic into place.  

Note: I actually found it much easier, and I liked the gathers more, if I pulled the elastic past the edge of the fabric about 1/4" and then clipped off the extra elastic after stitching.  This is what I did with the red pockets and you can see that the top is gathered tighter.  It was MUCH easier to hold onto the elastic as I stitched doing it this way.

Repeat with the second pocket.

Once you have your pocket edges turned under and your elastic sewn, you are ready to sew your pockets onto your pants.  The pattern has no actual marked place to sew your pockets on.  You can sew them on the front, on the back, up high, down low, one on the front and one on the back, whatever you decide will be perfect.  Once you have decided where to place your pockets, pin them down.

Next, sew your pockets about 1/8" from the edge on all three sides.  I also stitched along the top edge of each pocket, from the outermost edge inward for about 1/4".  I did this just to make sure the pockets were really secure.  My little girl loves to stuff lots of things in her pockets and I wanted to make sure they held. 

Congratulations!  You have finished lesson #1.  I hope you had fun.  Please make sure to share any questions, suggestions, or thoughts with us on the Facebook group.

Thanks for sewing with me,

Danielle Storm

www.whimsicalfabric.com