Sew-Along #18 - Penelope Dress / Top Pattern for Women - Lesson #2

The Penelope by Modkid

If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.   

Please read the Penelope pattern directions all the way through before you begin.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once before you begin also.
 

Hello ladies!  This is Sarah again and I am here with day 2 of the Penelope Sew Along. Today is an exciting day because we are going to sew this gal up!  So let's get started!

The first thing I will tell you is that I do not always follow the workflow laid out in the pattern. This pattern is really well written and if you are a rule follower (which I am in almost every area except sewing!) and want to go by the steps in the order of the pattern, that is great too and you should not have any problems. If you want to be a sewing rebel with me, then let's go...

A. Ironing Hems

The first step I like to take is folding and ironing my hems.  I do not sew them into place, I just iron them with the hem allowance so that when it is time to sew them, I already have a pressed line in place that I can turn up.  I just find it easier to iron them in when I have a flat fabric surface.  

I LOVE my multi-sided measuring gauge (affiliate link) and use it whenever I can (find it)...if not, I use the traditional slider gauge (affiliate link).  Either one, or even a heavy piece of paper with a line drawn on it (careful not to burn it!) will work to iron in a nice even hem.  

 
I simply measure the hem allowance and then press it, leaving a nice fold in the fabric.  

I did this for both of my sleeve edges and the bottom hem of the tunic (or dress or shirt).  I did a 1/2 hem on the sleeves, and a 1" hem on the bottom of the tunic.  If you are adding a ruffle to the bottom, you can skip ironing in the hem of the bottom edge.  

See? Nice pressed hem just waiting to be sewn in!

B. Gathering The Bodice Front

After pressing in my hems, I took my tunic to the sewing machine and ran a quick basting stitch between the dots on the front bodice piece.  I did one row of basting stitches because I am lazy it is just a small area I was gathering, but you can do 2 if you want.  I usually set my stitch length and its maximum and my tension at about 2.  This makes it nice and easy to pull the threads and gather.  

Your basting should look like this.  

Once the basting stitches are in, I like to put a pin in one side and loop my thread in a figure 8 around my pin.  This keeps the thread from being pulled out accidentally when you start gathering it (NOT that I have ever done that...) Then I pull the opposite side until I get the desired gather.  In this case, you want the area between the dots to be gathered to a width of about an inch.  Once it is gathered the correct amount, I put a pin in the second side and loop the thread around it in another figure 8.  

Close up of the pin looping. 

Now that we have the neckline gathered, I am going to skip a step again.  I like to put my neck binding on after the shoulder seams have been sewn.  I have an easier time getting the correct tension on my neckband that way.  Some people really prefer doing it in the flat, and that is described in step 4 of the pattern.  But if you are game, follow along and I will show you the way I do it.  

C. Gathering The Bust Area (Penelope Plus Only!)

Danielle here.  Before we sew up the shoulder seams I'm going to show you a few extra things.  The first is some extra gathering that is included on the Penelope Plus pattern.  This is to help create ample room for the bust.  If you are not making the Penelope Plus you can skip down to part D below.

You will notice the two markings under the arms on the front panel piece.

Sew two lines of basting stitches on the front panel piece between these two markings.  Make sure to keep them within the ½" seam allowance.  Repeat on both the left and right sides.

 You will be gathering these stitches . . .

 .  .  . so that the markings line up with the two markings on both the left and right sides of back panel piece.

D. Adding a Stabilizer To The Shoulders and Underarms (Optional)

The second thing I would like to cover is an optional step that you can take that will help stabilize your shoulder and underarm seams.  This will help keep the knit from stretching out with wear and while hanging on a hanger.

If you purchased a kit you receive Mobilon (lastin) which is a clear stretchy elastic.  Mobilon is awesome to add to seams while sewing with knits.  You have enough in your kit to add to both the shoulders and the underarm seams if you wish.  If you didn't purchase a kit and don't have any lastin, you can use ¼" ribbon or seam binding.  Those two items will reduce the amount of stretch your garment will have in the areas you apply it, but they will work nicely to stabilize the seams if you do not have lastin.

I find it easiest to secure the Mobilon to the fabric before I start pinning the seams together.  You can do this by applying some washable glue stick to your fabric.  I like to use Washaway Wonder Tape (affiliate link).  I love that stuff and use it ALL the time anymore.  

Then, just stick your Mobilon/ribbon/seam binding to your fabric. 

You can also just baste the the lastin to your fabric edge with your sewing machine.  Whatever you decide to use and however you decide to attach it, just make sure that it is fully within your ½" seam allowance.  If it isn't it will show when you finish your seams and you DO NOT want that.

E. Sewing Up Your Seams

Back to Sarah!   

If you are sewing on a sewing machine, you will want to use a stretch stitch and a ballpoint needle to sew up your garment.  On my machine, the stretch stitches are the yellow ones (those are hard to see, sorry!) and my length gets set to a specific spot, lower than 0, that looks like a yellow triangle.  Yours probably has setting for stretch stitches as well.  They usually look like a little lightening bolt or sets of three dashed or zig-zag lines.  

I used my serger for the rest of my garment and, if you have one, I'd encourage you to use it.  That is one GREAT thing about knits; you can sew almost the entire garment on the serger.  Just make sure you are using the 4 thread so you have a nice, strong seam.  I like to run a test seam on some of my scraps so I can make sure my differential feed is set correctly.  Sometimes knits can ripple when they are pulled through the serger.  I set my differential feed at about 1.5 for this garment.  

Once my setting were all good, I sewed the shoulder seams together from the neckline to the bottom of the sleeve.  Then I sewed the side seams together from the hemline, under the arm and to the hem of the sleeve.  You will want to make sure your ironed in hem allowances are unfold when you sew the seams.  

F. Neckband

Ok, so now we head back to the neckband.  The first thing you will need to do is sew the two short edges together, right sides together.  I used my sewing machine to this because I wanted to reduce the bulk of the seam, but you can do it with the serger as well.  

Once that is sewn together, I folded the neckband piece in half, wrong sides together, and pressed the neckband.  

It will look like this. 

Now, I use my Pilot brand FriXion ball pen (affiliate link) to mark my neckband into 4 equal parts.  You could also use a disappearing ink pen or even pins to mark it.  I use the friction pen because the ink disappears when you iron it (try it! It works!) and I really love the convenience of that.

I typically start by folding my band in half, folding the band where the seam I sewed is. Then I mark the fold on the opposite side (where my finger is).  You can see that below. 

I realized after I was done and writing this, that I did not take good pictures of this process, so I took some pictures with a scrap piece of fabric to show you guys :)

 Then I match the seam and the marked spot together and fold in half the opposite way.

 

You can see the center seam and marked seam matched below.  I mark where the pen is and where my finger is.  

This is what you will have when you are done.  

I follow the same process to mark the neckband of the garment. Mark the center front and back, then match those and mark the resulting sides.  

Center front and center back.

Center front and back matched, resulting sides are marked. 

These are the markings on shoulder sides.  

That looked like a lot of steps, but it is a really quick process (I promise!)

Once all of your quarters are marked, you simply match the markings on the neckline and the neckband pieces.  You want the neckband matched to the right side of the garment and you will want to make sure your center seam on the neckband is in the back. 

I pin my binding to the garment at each of the 4 marks.  You will notice that the binding is shorter than the neckline.  That is fine, you want it like that.  

Then I start at the center back and start sewing.  

I like to start it at the machine and just sew enough to catch the fabric and hold it.  I try to always have my binding piece on the bottom so I can see that I am not stretching my neckline piece.  You can see that the neck binding is shorter than the neckline.  

I grasp the neckline and binding at the next pinned section.  Pulling on the neck binding, I stretch the binding until it is just the length of the neckline to the next marked portion, making sure I am only stretching the binding and not the neckline.  

Then I sew that section of the neck binding to the neckline.  I repeat the process around the neckline.  

When you are done, you may still be able to see the basting stitches in front.  That is fine, they are easy to remove with a seam ripper.  

Press your neckline nice and flat, pressing the seam towards the dress.  

G. Hemming

Now for hemming.  I used my overstitch to hem mine, but you can use a stretch stitch, a rolled hem, a double needle or even leave it raw!  These options are all laid out in the pattern. Patty Young (the MODKID designer) also has some great videos on YouTube about hemming knits, if you want some additional direction.  

Since you already ironed in your hems, you can just fold those over now and hem the sleeves and bottom edge.  Then you are done!

But wait, there's more!  Come back on Day 3 and I will be showing you how to make an infinity scarf to go along with your top (or tunic or dress).  Yay for bonus techniques!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson twp to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Friday, October 31th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Happy sewing!
Sarah

Sew-Along #18 - Penelope Dress / Top Pattern for Women - Lesson #1

The Penelope by Modkid

If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.  Also, if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.   

Please read the Penelope pattern directions all the way through before you begin.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once before you begin also.

Hello everyone!  Welcome to day one of the Penelope Sew Along! I am Sarah and I blog over at BlogsLikeAMother.  I will be hosting the sew along and hopefully giving you a few tips you can use along the way.  

It is always exciting to start on a project for myself, although if I were honest, I'd say exciting mixed with a little trepidation.  So often when I sew for myself I have a great plan in place, but it doesn't turn out "just so" and I end up not wearing it.  Well, never  fear with this one ladies! This is super easy AND flattering and you will not be sorry!  So let's get started...

Today we are doing our fabric prep and cutting.  

A.The first step is fabric prep.  

I always wash my fabric before I use it.  Always. In fact, I put it in the wash as soon as I get it and before I put it away (who are we kidding, I mean before I add it to the stacks around my sewing room!) That way, I am always ready when sewing inspiration strikes.  With knits, it is especially important that you prewash because they tend to shrink up a bit.  So I would highly encourage you to wash your fabrics before you get started.  

If you haven't washed your fabrics, let's do that now.  

B. While the fabric is washing, let's get our pattern ready.  

This is a paper pattern, so no printing and cutting required!  You will need to decide what length you want to do and the size you want to make. I went with my measurements and found the pattern to be very true to size.  

When I use paper patterns, I will often use freezer paper to trace out my pattern.  That way, if I want to make another on in a different size, I haven't cut away those sizes.  On this one, I decided to just cut out my size.  I do not sew for other people, so I feel pretty confident this is the only size I will need to make out of this pattern.  If you would like to do the freezer paper method and are not sure how to do it just follow along.  If you are not going to use freezer paper skip down to step 2 below.

1. Creating Freezer Paper Pattern Pieces

 Hi everyone.  This is Danielle and I also made the Penelope.  As you might already know, I LOVE freezer paper so I went ahead and used it to trace my Penelope.

First I fussy cut around all of my pattern pieces.

 Then, I ironed out the pattern pieces to make sure they were smooth.

Next, I rolled out my freezer paper to cover my pattern.  As you can see my freezer paper wasn't wide enough to cover the whole pattern.

Since my freezer paper wasn't wide enough I used a scrap piece to lay over the arm.

I taped the extra piece down with masking tape.  You don't want to use scotch tape because if you accidentally hit it with your iron it will melt.

Using a Sharpie marker trace over all of the lines and markings.  Make sure to write all of the information on your freezer paper pattern pieces.

 

When I have everything traced I then fussy cut around my freezer paper pattern pieces. 

To use your freezer paper pattern pieces you simply lay the paper, shiny side down onto your fabric.  Take your iron and iron over the pattern piece.   

DO NOT touch the iron to the glossy side of your freezer paper! It will melt and make a mess of your iron. The freezer paper will temporarily stick to your fabric making it super easy to cut your pieces out. You will want to skip over ironing where you have your masking tape.  If you iron touches the masking tape it will not instantly melt, but you don't really want to iron back and forth over it either.  Do iron the rest of the pattern area onto your fabric though. 

Now, back to Sarah!

2.  Cutting out your fabric.  

If you are using the regular length or the dress length, go ahead and select your size and cut it out using your preferred method.  If you want to alter it to a tunic length, this is how I did that.  

Note: The Penelope Plus pattern does have a cutting line for a long tunic length on the pattern pieces already.

First I measured how long I wanted it from my underarm to hem.  I find the underarm to hem measurement is easier to do when I am measuring myself, but you could certainly do the center back or center front measurement if you want.  I marked that length on my pattern pieces.  Then I cut out the dress length pattern. 

Once my dress length pattern was cut out, I folded the pattern piece at my measured tunic length and laid it out on the fabric.   

I cut along the straight edge of the bottom of the pattern (along, but not through the fold) and just slightly past the folded edge.  

The I unfolded my pattern piece (so that I did not cut into it and could see the pattern piece) and cut the rest of the piece out.  

Once the piece was cut out, I aligned the bottom of the dress piece (it is slightly curved) with the straight edge I cut along the bottom of the tunic.  Since the curved hem line is a cute feature of the pattern, I wanted to preserve that.  Lining up the folded corner of the cut piece with the pattern piece, I cut along the original curved hem line.  

You will notice that the piece does not line up on the side opposite of the fold.  That is fine! It is because the hem of the dress is wider than the tunic length will be.  But it still gives a nice curved hem for the tunic.  

I repeated that process for the other piece and cut out my neck band.  If you are doing a ruffle, you will want to cut that out as well.  

And then you are done for Day 1!  Not so bad, right?  Come join us for Day 2 and we will sew this right up!  

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Thursday, October 30th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

See you soon!

Sarah

Sew-Along #18 - Penelope Dress / Top Pattern for Women - Preparations

The Penelope by Modkid

Before we begin the sew-along on Tuesday, October 28^th, you'll want to gather a few items and do a few things to prepare.

Items to Collect

1. You must have the Penelope or Penelope Plus pattern to complete this project.  If you have not yet purchased this, please do so here. 
   
   
2. If you do not have fabric for the project you will want to purchase that also.  At the time of this writing we do have a some fabric kits available.  We also have lots of fun fabric selections on our website.  A little note on fabric.  We will be making a bonus infinity scarf.  This scarf will require an extra ½ yard of knit fabric beyond what is listed on the pattern.  And don't forget to add a bit extra to accommodate for preshrinkage.  Knits tend to shrink a lot.
   
   
3. You might also want some clear elastic, called Lastin, seam binding, or narrow ribbon.  I will be showing you how you can insert this into the shoulder and underarm seams to help keep your garment from stretching out of shape.  All kits come with Lastin.  If you are not purchasing a kit, you might want to make sure you have one of these on hand.
   
4. Since we are sewing with knits you will want to make sure you have ballpoint needles on hand.  Ballpoint needles allow the thread to move between the knit fibers and prevents the knit from being cut as you sew.  If you don't use ballpoint needles you run the chance of little holes showing up where you stitch once your garment is washed.
   
5. You will need coordinating thread to complete this project.  The project kits did not come with thread, so please make sure you have some. 
6. And finally, you will need pins, a sewing machine, a good iron (a steam iron is preferable for sewing), a pair of fabric shears or a rotary cutter and mat, a ruler, and a fabric pen or chalk. 
   
   

Optional Items to Collect - The following items are totally optional.

1. I will be tracing the pattern pieces onto freezer paper.  I highly recommend this method.  In addition to keeping your original pattern pieces intact, it also makes cutting out your knit fabric super simple. You can find freezer paper at most grocery stores where the wax paper and aluminum foil. 
   
2. A sharpie or other permanent marker for tracing your pattern pieces onto the freezer paper is helpful.  I recommend a black sharpie as the colored ones, though more fun, can tend to transfer onto your fabrics when you iron over them.  Ack!  Had that happen recently and I was so sad.
3. Some people really like to use a walking foot when sewing knits.  If you have one you could try it.  If you don't have one, you do not need to go out and buy one for this project.  Your regular foot should work fine.

   

   Most Walking Foots look similar to this.

4. A double, or twin needle might come in handy for finishing the hems, but again, it's not necessary. 
   

Things to Do

1. Make sure to prewash and preshrink all of your fabrics.  I wash my fabrics on warm/hot and then I dry my fabrics in the dryer with no softeners.  I always preshrink this way when I am using fabric for clothing construction.  I would hate to work hard on something only to have it shrink and not fit when I was done.  This is especially true of knits.  They tend to shrink a lot!
2. Press all of your fabrics well.  I try to do this straight out of the dryer so that the wrinkles come out easier.  
3. Don't forget to join our Facebook Sew-Along Group so you can post your progress pictures. Everyone who posts completed lesson pictures, on time, to the Facebook Group, will be entered into drawings to win some awesome prizes!

Happy Sewing,
Danielle Storm
www.whimsicalfabric.com

Sew-Along #17 - Children's Pants Pattern No.2 - Lesson #5

The Children's Pants Pattern No.2 by E+M Patterns

Welcome to day two of the Children's Pants Pattern No.2 sew-along.  I want to remind everyone that I am not a "professional" seamstress, nor was I formally taught.  I'm just a girl who loves fabric, sewing, and pretty much everything related to those two things.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Please read the Children's Pants Pattern No.2 Tutorial all the way through before you begin.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once before you begin also.

If you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps. 

Now, let's finish these pants!

A. Creating the Waistband

1. Cut your interfacing according the the chart located on page 9 of the tutorial.  Press your interfacing onto the wrong side of the front waistband piece.  Don't iron back and forth, just press it until it is firmly attached.

2. Place your two waistband pieces right sides together.  Using a ½" seam allowance stitch the short ends forming a loop.

3. Press open the seams.

4. With wrong sides together fold this loop in half lengthwise and press well.

5. Unfold the loop and press up one edge a ½" all around the loop.

B. Attaching the Waistband to the Pants

1. Find the center front and center back of the waistband and mark both with a fabric pen or chalk.

2. With right sides together line up the unfolded edge of the waistband to the top edge of the pants.  Pin in place.

3. Stitch together using a ½" seam allowance.  Turn your pants inside out and press the seam up towards the waistband.

4. Turn your pants back to right sides out.  Fold the waistband down.  Line up the folded edge of the waistband with the seam line you just created.  Starting at the side seams, and pinning from the outside of the pants, pin the waistband down.

 

5. Edge stitch the waistband down in the back only.  Make sure you are catching the folded edge on the inside.

6. The tutorial doesn't cover this, but I like to edge stitch the very top of my waistbands.  I feel it gives the pants a more professional look.  It's totally optional.  If you choose to do this, stitch as close to the edge as you feel comfortable.  I stitch 1/16" from the edge.

7. Create a casing in the back waistband by stitching from one side seam to the next ¾" away from the top edge of the pants.  This should be right down the middle of the back waistband.

8. Cut two pieces of elastic according to the chart found on page 7 of the tutorial.  Using safety pins thread the elastic pieces into the casings on the back of the pants. I put a safety pin on each end just to make sure if I pull too hard I can thread the elastic back out the other end.  

9. Once your elastic is in place, stitch in the ditch of the side seams to secure it.  You might want to secure the elastic on one side but only baste the elastic on the other side.  That way you can try the pants on to make sure the waist sizing it correct.  If the waist is too loose, you can pick out the basting stitches and tighten the elastic up a bit before securing it.   

Note: When I have my elastic exactly how I want it I stitch in the ditch twice on both side to make sure the stitches won't come loose in the future.

10. Edge stitch the front waistband down just like you did on the back, making sure you catch the bottom folded edge as you stitch.

C. Hemming the Pants 

Note: You might want to try the pants on before you hem.  Depending on the fit, you may need to adjust how much you hem the legs.

1. Turn your pants inside out.  Fold up the bottom hem 1" and press.  

2. Fold the raw edge in ½" and press.

3. Edge stitch the hem down.  I like to use a double row of stitches and I lengthen my stitches.

You did it!  You now have a awesome pair of pants for some lucky little boy or girl.  Congratulations and enjoy your creation!


* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Tuesday, October 7th.  Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thanks for sewing with me,

Danielle Storm

www.whimsicalfabric.com