Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Sew-Along #16 - Hippy Chick Skirt - Lesson #1

The Hippy Chick Skirt

Welcome to the Hippy Chick Skirt sew-along.  I want to remind everyone that I am not a "professional" seamstress, nor was I formally taught.  I'm just a girl who loves fabric, sewing, and pretty much everything related to those two things.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Please read the Hippy Chick Skirt Instructions all the way through before you begin.  We will be going over how to make the Option #2 - Classic Style skirt in this sew-along.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once before you begin.

I also want to remind everyone that if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful in some steps.  Let's begin now.

Day 1 - Planning Out Your Skirt and Cutting Your Fabrics

1. The first thing you need to do is decide where you want each fabric on your skirt.  Turn to page 5 of your instructions.  At the top it should say Option #2 Classic Style and shows the layout of the fabric panels for the skirt we will be creating. You will need to assign a number to each fabric you have so when you go to cut out your fabric you will know what to cut for that particular print.  I suggest playing with your fabric and deciding which prints you would like to have next to each other.  Take into consideration colors and scale of the prints.

2. Using a marking instrument label each fabric with the Fabric Number (not strip number) along the selvage.  I used a Sharpie.  If you use a Sharpie, make sure it doesn't bleed through onto anything else.

3. Now, turn to page 2 of the pattern instructions.  You will need to decide which size will fit you best.  Measure your waist with a non-stretchable measuring tape at the narrowest point between the bottom of your ribcage and your hip bones. Tension should be firm but not pulled so tightly as to compress the tissue underneath. Measure your hips at the widest point around your buttocks.
Note: If you do not have a measuring tape, you can use a piece of non-stretchable string.  Carefully, mark on the string and then lay it out flat on a yard stick or cutting ruler to get your measurements.

4. Using the measurement chart on page 2, determine which size will fit you best.  If your waist is one size and your hip is another, it's usually best to go with your hip measurement.  You can always adjust your elastic length to fit your waist.
Note: For the perfect fit, take your hip measurement and add two inches.  Cut your dropwaist band to this amount.  Thus, if your hips measured 40", cut your dropwaist band 21" on the fold, which creates a 42" wide dropwaist band.
5. The last thing we are going to do today is cut out all of our fabric strips for the skirt.  Turn to the last page of your instructions, and find your size under the Classic Skirt at the bottom of the page.  If you have printed out your instructions, go ahead and highlight the all of the measurements for your size; this will help you stay on track. If you are doing a custom sized dropwaist band, write in exactly what you need to cut it too.

6. Carefully, cut off the selvages that you labeled.  Leave a little bit of the print on these so that you can remember which fabric is which.  Using a rotary cutter, mat, and quilting ruler will make cutting much easier.  You could also tear your fabric if you feel confident doing so.  Note though that the seam allowances for this skirt are just ¼", so be careful you don't end up with too wide of a frayed edge.
    7. Set aside your labeled selvages for tomorrow's lesson.

    8. Now, using the cutting guide for the Classic Skirt, begin to cut your fabrics.  Be very careful to make straight cuts both lengthwise and crosswise.  Plan out your cuts beforehand and make sure you are taking the direction of your fabric into consideration.  Remember to measure twice and cut once.  You might want to measure three times!  This is honestly the hardest part of the skirt.  Take your time and think it through.
    Note: The dropwaist band and the two hemband pieces are all cut on the fold.  This means to fold your fabric so that the width will be doubled.  For instance, if your dropwaist band measurement says 17" wide, when unfolded your waistband should be twice that (34" wide total.)

    9. When you have finished cutting all of your fabrics, you should end up with the following.
    • 2 each of fabric 1, 4, and 5
    • 4 each of fabric 2 and 6
    • 4 of fabric 3
    • 1 dropwaist band
    • 2 hembands

    We are done with our first lesson.  Hope you had fun!  Check back here tomorrow for lesson two. 

    * If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, July 30th. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

    Thanks for sewing with me,
    Danielle Storm
    www.whimsicalfabric.com

    Sunday, July 27, 2014

    Sew-Along #16 - Hippy Chick Skirt - Preparations

    The Hippy Chick Skirt by Pink Fig

    Before we begin the sew-along on Tuesday, July 29th, you'll want to gather a few items and do a few things to prepare.

    Items to Collect
    1. You must have the Hippy Chick Skirt Instructions to complete this project.  If you have not yet purchased them, please do so here.
    2. If you do not have fabric for the project you will want to purchase that also.  At the time of this writing we do have a some fabric kits available.  We also have lots of fun fabric selections on our website.  
    3. You will need coordinating thread to complete this project.  The project kits did not come with thread, so please make sure you have some.  
    4. One inch wide elastic is needed according to the Hippy Chick instructions.  Fabric kits came with 3/4" wide elastic, which is more of an industry standard size.  We will be teaching the adjustments needed to use the 3/4" elastic for the waist instead.
    5. And finally, you will need pins, a sewing machine, a good iron (a steam iron is preferable for sewing), a pair of fabric shears or a rotary cutter and mat, a ruler, and a fabric pen or chalk.  

    Things to Do
    1. Make sure to prewash and preshrink all of your fabrics.  I wash my fabrics on warm/hot and then I dry my fabrics in the dryer with no softeners.  I always preshrink this way when I am using fabric for clothing construction.  I would hate to work hard on something only to have it shrink and not fit when I was done.
    2. Press your fabrics well.  I try to do this straight out of the dryer so that the wrinkles come out easier.  
    3. If you purchased the sewing instructions as a PDF, make sure to download them onto your computer, tablet, or smart phone.
    4. Don't forget to join our Facebook Sew-Along Group so you can post your progress pictures. Everyone who posts completed lesson pictures, on time, to the Facebook Group, will be entered into drawings to win their choice of an iTunes, Amazon.com, Starbucks, McDonalds, or Red Box gift card.  We will have three chances to win!
       
    Happy Sewing,
    Danielle Storm
    www.whimsicalfabric.com

    Wednesday, July 16, 2014

    Sew-Along #15 - Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts - Lesson #6

    The Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

    If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

    Note: If you would like to see any of the images larger just click on them.  

    Please read the directions in your Sketchbook pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's also a good idea to read through this sew-along lesson before starting.

    Making SHORTS!:
    • Leave one pant leg INSIDE out and turn the other leg RIGHTSIDE out.
    • Place the RIGHTSIDE out leg inside the INSIDE out leg, matching them up along the crotch.
    • Pin together making sure to match up the inseams of the pants.

    • Sew along the curve - make sure to plant your needle and pivot at the marked dot at the bottom of the front fly.
    • Sew a second line of stitching on top of the first from the dot at the bottom for the fly to the double notches in the back - this will reinforce the crotch and prevent the stitches from ripping out.
    • Using a ruler or stright edge, draw a line connecting the dot at the crotch up to the notch at the top of the pants.

    • Stitch along this line, making sure to back stitch at the dot.

    • Clip the SA from the bottom of the fly up to the dot.

    • Finish the edges of the SA with a serger or zig zag.

    • Press the fly and SA to the wearers left side for boys (press to the right for girls if wanted).
    • Run a basting stitch along the top of the fly to hold it in place.

    • Top stitch along your fly - I work from the wrong side so that I can follow the stitching line.  If you work from the right side, use a marking tool to draw your stitching line and then sew along the line.

    • Press the hem of the shorts 1/2" to the wrong side.

    • Press again 1 inch to the wrong side.

    • Stitch your hem along the inside folded edge - you could also use an invisible stitch or do a running or whip stitch by hand.

    Waist Band:
    • Take your waist band and match the short ends, right side together.

    • Sew.
    • Press your seam open.
    • Fold one raw edge 1/2 inch down to the wrong side and press.

    • Match the unfolded edge of the waistband to your shorts, right sides together (make sure to match up your markings and the seam on the waistband matches the back seam on the shorts.)

    • Sew together.

    • Press your seam allowance up toward the band.
    • Fold your waist band over so that your folded edge overlaps the seam slightly, pin in place.

    • Sew the waist band and shorts together by stitching in the ditch, leaving a 2 inch opening for your elastic:  If you want to do a flat front, like I have done, sew from the pleat on one side around to the pleat on the other side.

    • Take your elastic (I love that Whimsical Fabric kits always include the notions you need like elastic or interfacing!)  and cut a length approximately 2-3 inches smaller than your child's waist.  *My one pet peeve with O&S is that they do not include elastic measurements. You can always use the recommendation from another pants pattern you have, or cut it a bit long and then fit it to your child.

    • You are going to feed your elastic through the opening left in the front between the two belt loops.  Attach a safety pin to one end and push it through.  Once you have it threaded through, stitch your ends together. 

    • For the flat front, you will stitch each end of the elastic to your waistband by sewing straight up from the pleat seam - this will give one continuous seam.  Then stitch across the front opening so that the entire waist band is secured. Press well.

       Wohoooo - You made the Shorts!!!
    Now your outfit is done, put it on your child and snap some pictures so that I can see - I love seeing what people get to create!!!


    * If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed Lesson 5 to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Friday, July 18th.

    Suzanne

    Tuesday, July 15, 2014

    Sew-Along #15 - Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts - Lesson #5

    The Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

    If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

    Note: If you would like to see any of the images larger just click on them.  

    Please read the directions in your Sketchbook pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's also a good idea to read through this sew-along lesson before starting.

    We have a shirt, now we need some shorts!  Compared to the shirt, these are quite easy, I promise you.  And if you have sewed along with me on the Field Trip Cargo Pants, many techniques will be the same.

    Lay out all your shorts pieces, turn on that iron, and let's get going...



    Front Pockets
    • Line up the curve of your front Pocket with the curve of your front pants piece - make sure Your fabric is RIGHT sides together.

    • Pin in place.
    • Sew along the curve from edge to edge with a 1/2" SA (seam allowance), back stitching at each end.

    • Cut your SA to 1/4".

    • Press your seam allowance towards the pocket.
    • Flip the fabric so that your pieces are now WRONG sides together and press the curve of the pocket.

    • Top stitch along the pocket edge.

    • You can add a 2nd line of top stitching 1/4" from the edge if you would like.
    • Take your pocket and lay it out so that the curved edges of the pocket and pocket lining match. 

    • Pin in place.

       
    • Stitch along the curved edge of your pocket.

    • Finish the seam.
      Do not baste in place yet!

    Front Pleats
    • Make sure your markings are transferred form your pattern piece to your shorts front.

    • Fold the shorts right sides together so that the marking match.

    • Pin in place.
    • Sew your pleat.  Make sure to back tack at the end.

    • Press the pleat toward the pocket.
    • Using a basting stitch, secure your pocket to the front piece along the top edge and side below the curve. (Make sure that the pocket overlaps the pleat if there is any overlap in your size.)

    Leg Assembly
    • Pin the out seam of your shorts together (one front, one back), right sides together.

    • Sew.
    • Finish your seam with a serger or zig zag stitch.

    • Press the seam.

    • Repeat on the other leg.
    • Finish the raw edges of each inseam with a serger or zig zag.

    • Sew the inseam together, right sides together.

    • Repeat on the other leg.
    • Press the seam open.

    That's it for today - come back tomorrow to complete your shorts!!!

    * If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed Lesson 5 to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Thursday, July 17th.

    Suzanne
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