Sew-Along #15 - Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts - Lesson #5

The Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Note: If you would like to see any of the images larger just click on them.  

Please read the directions in your Sketchbook pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's also a good idea to read through this sew-along lesson before starting.

We have a shirt, now we need some shorts!  Compared to the shirt, these are quite easy, I promise you.  And if you have sewed along with me on the Field Trip Cargo Pants, many techniques will be the same.

Lay out all your shorts pieces, turn on that iron, and let's get going...

Front Pockets

• Line up the curve of your front Pocket with the curve of your front pants piece - make sure Your fabric is RIGHT sides together.
  
  
  
• Pin in place.
• Sew along the curve from edge to edge with a 1/2" SA (seam allowance), back stitching at each end.
  
  
  
• Cut your SA to 1/4".
  
  
  
• Press your seam allowance towards the pocket.
• Flip the fabric so that your pieces are now WRONG sides together and press the curve of the pocket.
  
  
  
• Top stitch along the pocket edge.
  
  
  
• You can add a 2nd line of top stitching 1/4" from the edge if you would like.
• Take your pocket and lay it out so that the curved edges of the pocket and pocket lining match. 
  
  
  
• Pin in place.
  
   
• Stitch along the curved edge of your pocket.
  
  
  
• Finish the seam.

  

  Do not baste in place yet!

Front Pleats

• Make sure your markings are transferred form your pattern piece to your shorts front.
  
  
  
• Fold the shorts right sides together so that the marking match.
  
  
  
• Pin in place.
• Sew your pleat.  Make sure to back tack at the end.
  
  
  
• Press the pleat toward the pocket.
• Using a basting stitch, secure your pocket to the front piece along the top edge and side below the curve. (Make sure that the pocket overlaps the pleat if there is any overlap in your size.)
  

Leg Assembly

• Pin the out seam of your shorts together (one front, one back), right sides together.
  
  
  
• Sew.
• Finish your seam with a serger or zig zag stitch.
  
  
  
• Press the seam.
  
  
  
• Repeat on the other leg.
• Finish the raw edges of each inseam with a serger or zig zag.
  
  
  
• Sew the inseam together, right sides together.
  
  
  
• Repeat on the other leg.
• Press the seam open.

That's it for today - come back tomorrow to complete your shorts!!!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed Lesson 5 to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Thursday, July 17th.

Suzanne

Sew-Along #15 - Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts - Lesson #4

The Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Note: If you would like to see any of the images larger just click on them.  

Please read the directions in your Sketchbook pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's also a good idea to read through this sew-along lesson before starting.

Today we will finish our shirt - WAAHOOOOOOO!

Press your sleeve hem:
*This is out of order from the instructions, but way easier to do right now.*

• Turn the raw edge of your sleeve in toward the wrong side 1/2".
• Press well.
• Turn it in to the wrong side again, this time 1".
• Press well.

  

  I did it there way after sewing the side seam but really, it is simpler to do this first.

• Repeat for the other side.

Side Seam:

• Line up the side seams of your shirt making sure to match the seam of the armscye.  Make sure to unfold your sleeve hem!
  
  
  
• Pin together.
• Sew
  
  
  
• Finish your raw edges with a serger or zig zag stitch.
• Repeat for the other side.
• Hem your sleeves by refolding along your pressed markings.
  
  
  
• Sew along the inside fold.  I chose to do two rows of stitching for an added detail, that is optional.
  

Hem

• Start off by sewing a basting stitch 1/2 inch from the raw edge of the bottom of your shirt.  *This is going to help keep your turned hem smooth along the curves of the shirttail.
  
  
  
• Press the raw edge up toward the wrong side of the shirt along the basting line.
  
  
  
• Turn the raw edge down into the fold with your fingers while you edge stitch the hem.  *If you prefer, you can go ahead and press the raw edge down into the fold to make this step easier.
  
  
  
• Remove your basting stitch.

Almost there, time for BUTTONHOLES!

One of the things I like about this pattern is the inclusion of the button hole guide, no measuring or guessing.

• Take your button hole guide and make sure you have cut slits in all the markings.
  
  
  
• Line the guide up with the seam where the collar meets the shirt (boys are left over right - so your button holes need to be on the left placket when worn.)
• Take a marking pen or chalk and draw a line in each of the markings all the way down (make sure to go from point to point.)
  
  
  
• Create a button hole on each marking.
  
  
  
• Open the button hole with a seam ripper (for safety, place a pin at the top edge of your button hole, so that you can't rip into your shirt.)
  
  
  
• To add the buttons, line the guide up on the opposite placket and mark the center of each button hole marking.
• Sew on your buttons.

Voila - an awesome oxford shirt!!!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed Lesson 4 to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Wednesday, July 16th.

Suzanne

Sew-Along #15 - Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts - Lesson #3

The Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Note: If you would like to see any of the images larger just click on them.  

Please read the directions in your Sketchbook pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's also a good idea to read through this sew-along lesson before starting.

All right - today we get to start to see a shirt come alive!!!!!!!!!!

Grab the fronts and back that we worked on yesterday, turn your iron on, and let's get started.

Shoulder:

• Take your Back and fold the outer yoke down (this is the side that is ALL right sides).
• Take the inner yoke and line it up with the Front shoulder right sides together.
  
  
  
• Pin in place and sew.
  
  
  
• Repeat for the other side.
• Press both shoulder seams down toward the yoke.
• Now you are going to wrap the outer yoke around the outside and pin the shoulder together (your fabric may get a little bulky, but just push it out of your sewing area.
  
  
  
  
• Press your seams well.
  

The Collar:

Note: Suzanne does not cover this but the pattern instructions mention using interfacing on one of the collar pieces.  If you purchased a kit you did receive enough interface to do this step.  It will make your collar crisper.

• Take your collar pieces and lay them out right sides together.
  
  
  
• Pin together and sew around the sides and outside curve.
  
  
  
  
• Trim your seam allowance to 1/8".
  
  
  
• Turn and press. Make sure to push out your corners with a turning tool or chopstick.
  
  

Attaching the Collar:

• Open your collar so that you have the two layers separate.
• Pin the underlayer of the collar to the shirt neckline making sure to match the notches with the shoulder seams and center back.
  
  
  
• Stitch in place.  Make sure that you go slowly and don't catch any extra fabric or create any puckers as you sew.
• Trim your seam allowance to 1/4.
  
  
  
• Take the raw edge of your collar and press it in to the collar 1/2".
• Press the collar in place.
• Pin well.
• Edge stitch the inner fold of the collar (you could also stitch in the ditch from the opposite side, but I like edge stitching as the inside of the collar is typically seen more than the outside which is hidden under the collar itself).
  
  
  
  
• You will now top stitch your collar - I like to make sure that my stitching on the front matches the placket stitching as much as possible. (I chose two rows of stitching, you only need one.)
  
  
  
• Fold your collar over and press well with a good amount of steam and some spray starch if you have it so that the collar will lay properly.

Sleeves:

• Take your two sleeves (I am doing short sleeve, if you have questions about the long sleeve, just ask and I'll help you out as much as possible!)
• Lay them out so that they are mirror images of one another.
• Run a basting stitch along the top of each sleeve from marking to marking - this will help ease your sleeve into place.
  
  
  
• Lay your sleeve on top of your shirt, right sides together.
  
  
  
• Pin in place along the curve.
  
  
  
• Sew and finish your raw edge with a serger or a zig zag stitch.
  
  
  
• Repeat on the other sleeve.

That's it, we are done for the day - Monday this shirt is really going to take shape!

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed Lesson 3 to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Monday, July 14th.

Suzanne