Sew-Along #14 - Frannie Dress - Lesson #1

The Frannie Dress

Welcome to the Frannie Dress sew-along.  I want to remind everyone that I am not a "professional" seamstress, nor was I formally taught.  I'm just a girl who loves fabric, sewing, and pretty much everything related to those two things.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Please read the directions in your Frannie Dress pattern all the way through before you begin.  It's probably a good idea to read through this lesson once before you begin also.

I also want to remind everyone that if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them.  It might be helpful on some steps.  Let's begin now.

Day 1 - Tracing the Pattern, Cutting Out the Fabric, Sewing the Collar

1. Unfold your pattern sheets, locate the pattern pieces for your size and fussy cut around them.  There will be three pieces; the dress front, the dress back, and the collar.  

2. With most tissue patterns I like to iron the pieces before I trace them.  This ensures that they are nice and flat and makes tracing easier.

3. I also like to place a piece of white paper behind the pattern piece when my surface is dark to make the pattern lines easier to see.

4. Place a piece of freezer paper, shinny side down, on top of your pattern piece.  Use some pattern weights or tape to hold it in place.

5. Using a Sharpie, carefully trace around your pattern piece.  Make sure to transfer all markings and information onto your freezer paper. 

6. Next, fussy cut around your freezer pattern piece.

7.  Repeat for all three of your pattern pieces. 

 8. Grab your stack of prewashed fabric and trim.

9. Give your fabrics a good pressing with your iron to remove any fold lines.

Like my husbands fix for my Rowenta?

10. Now, the beauty of freezer paper patterns.  I love this stuff!!  Using the layout diagram in the pattern instructions, lay out your freezer paper pattern pieces, shiny side down onto your dress fabric.  Take your iron and iron over the pattern piece. 

DO NOT touch the iron to the glossy side of your freezer paper! It will melt and make a mess of your iron.

11. The freezer paper will temporarily stick to your fabric making it super easy to cut your pieces out.

12. Once you have ironed on your pattern pieces onto your dress fabric go ahead and carefully cut them out.  Don't forget to transfer all of the pattern markings onto you fabric (shown here on the lining fabric).

13. After cutting out and transferring the markings to the dress fabric carefully peel off the freezer pattern pieces and apply them the same way to your lining fabric.  The beautify of the freezer patterns is that you can use them over and over.  Next time you are ready to make another Frannie Dress just pull out your pattern pieces, iron them on your fabric, cut, and go!  How awesome is that?  Don't you just love it?

Note: I chose to make my collar out of just the lining fabric because I  wanted the look of the solid collar.  You may use your dress fabric, lining fabric, or a coordinate.  It's totally up to you.  Just make sure that you line up the grainline on the pattern piece along the lengthwise grainline of whatever fabric you choose to use.  This is very important. 

14. Cut four ties, 1½" x 11" each.

15. You should now have the following;

• 1 Dress Front
• 1 Dress Front Lining
• 1 Dress Back
• 1 Dress Back Lining
• 2 Left Collars Pieces (one reversed)
• 2 Right Collars Pieces (one reversed)
• 4 Ties

If you would like to add a ruffle to the bottom of the dress you should cut that out now.  The Frannie Dress pattern comes with an insert that guides you in how to cut and add a ruffle to your dress.  I will not be adding a ruffle to my dress.

16. Grab your dress back and mark your seam line ¼" from the edge at the center of the collar.

17. Mark two lines ⅛" from center on either side.

18. Using a straightedge, draw two line down from your previous lines to the slit dot.  Repeat for the back lining.

19. With right sides together line up the shoulder seams of your dress front and dress back.  Using a ¼" seam allowance stitch together. Repeat with your front and back lining.

 
20. Press all shoulder seams open.

21. We are now going to sew the collars.  Mark the outer edges with ¼" seam allowances on both top collar pieces.

22.  Grab your Wonder Tape or glue pen and apply it to your prewashed ric-rac.

23. Carefully apply the ric-rac to your seam line.  Make sure to start at the front of the collar. You want the valley of the ric-rack located on the inside of the collar to just barely cover the seam line.  You can stretch the ric-rac slightly around the curves to make it fit.

 
24. With right sides together, place your bottom collar piece on top of your ric-rac making a ric-rac sandwich.  Stitch the outer curved edge using a ¼" seam allowance.  Turn your collar right side out.

 
25. You might end up with Wonder Tape or glue showing on the outside.  

 

26.  Place a pin into the ric-rac tail at the front of your collar so you can remember which end if the front.  Then, carefully wash away the Wonder Tape or glue with warm water.  Pat to dry and then hang from the back ric-rac tail to dry all the way.  Make sure to keep the pin in place so that you know which end is the front when you are ready to sew the collars onto the dress.

 

We are done with our first lesson.  Woo hoo!  Great job!  Check back here tomorrow for lesson two. 

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson one to the Facebook Album by 12:00 noon CT, Thursday, May 29th. Also, if you have any questions the Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Thanks for sewing with me,

Danielle Storm

www.whimsicalfabric.com

Sew-Along #14 - Frannie Dress - Preparations

The Frannie Dress by Children's Corner

Before we begin the sew-along on Wednesday, May 28^th, you'll want to gather a few items and do a few things to prepare.

Items to Collect

1. You must have the Frannie dress pattern by Children's Corner to complete this project.  If you have not yet purchased it, please do so here.
2. If you do not have fabric for the project you will want to purchase that also.  At the time of this writing we do have a some fabric kits available.  We also have lots of fun fabric selections on our website.  
3. You will need coordinating thread to complete this project.  The project kits did not come with thread, so please make sure you have some.  
4. We will be using ric-rac to trim out the collar in this sew-along.  If you would also like to use ric-rac we do have a wide range of colors available on our site. The kits do come with ric-rac so if you purchased a kit from us you are good to go.
5. You will need a small button to close the back of the dress.  The kits do come with a button.
6. We will also be adding decorative buttons to the front of the dress during the sew-along.  If you would like to purchase some from us we carry a wide selection of adorable Riley Blake buttons.  Again, the kits do come with decorative buttons, so if you purchase a kit no need to buy more.
7. I like to add a bit of fusible interfacing behind the buttons when I make the Frannie to give them some strength.  You only need a small piece.  About 1½" by 8" will do.  The kits do come with fusible interfacing, so you are all set with a kit.
8. You will need some sort of fabric marking instrument.  You can use chalk, a marking pencil, washable fabric pen; even a bar of soap will work.
   
   
9. And finally, you will need pins, a sewing machine, a good iron (a steam iron is preferable for sewing), a pair of fabric shears or a rotary cutter and mat, and a ruler.  
   
   

Optional Items to Collect - The following items are totally optional.

1. I will be tracing the pattern pieces onto freezer paper.  I highly recommend this method.  In addition to keeping your original pattern pieces intact, it also makes cutting out your fabric super simple. You can find freezer paper at most grocery stores where the wax paper and aluminum foil. 
   
2. A sharpie or other permanent marker for tracing your pattern pieces onto the freezer paper is helpful.  I recommend a black sharpie as the colored ones, though more fun, can tend to transfer onto your fabrics when you iron over them.  Ack!  Had that happen recently and I was so sad.
3. We will be making a buttonhole loop on the back of the dress.  If you have access to embroidery floss you might find it is easier to work with than sewing thread for this step.  If not, you can just use sewing thread.
4. You will find it much easier to attach your ric-rac to your collar if you use either Wonder Tape or a glue pen.  I prefer the Wonder Tape.  It's a double sided tape that washes completely away when you are done.  You can find it at most any fabric or discount store that carries sewing supplies.  If you don't have Wonder Tape you can just use a child's washable glue stick for the ric-rac.
   
   
   

Things to Do

1. Make sure to prewash and preshrink all of your fabrics.  I wash my fabrics on warm/hot and then I dry my fabrics in the dryer with no softeners.  I always preshrink this way when I am using fabric for clothing construction.  I would hate to work hard on something only to have it shrink and not fit when I was done.
2. You should also prewash your ric-rac. Prewashing will help prevent any bleeding when you launder your completed garment.  First, take a match or lighter and lightly melt the edges of your trim so that is won't fray.  Then, using a lingerie bag if you have one, wash your ric-rak on warm/hot in your washer.  If you don't have a lingerie bag you can just wash your ric-rac in the sink by hand.  Hang your ric-rac to dry. 
3. Prewash your fusible interfacing to preshrink it.  This will prevent any wrinkles or waves that might arise when you launder your garment.  To prewash your interfacing simply soak it in a sink for about 5 minutes in very warm water.  You don't want the water too hot to avoid removing the iron-on finish, but you do want it warm enough to shrink the interfacing.  After soaking, just pat it with a clean towel and hang it to dry.
4. Press your fabrics well.  I try to do this straight out of the dryer so that the wrinkles come out easier.  
5. If you haven't already, join our Facebook Sew-Along Group so you can post your progress pictures.
   

Happy Sewing,

Danielle Storm
www.whimsicalfabric.com

Sew-Along #13 - Stella Dress - Lesson #4

The Stella Dress View B by Izzy & Ivy Designs

Welcome to the Stella Dress sew-along.  If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips to share; please make sure to post them on our Facebook group.

Hopefully you have already read the Stella Dress instructions all the way through. It's probably a good idea to read through today's lesson once too before you begin.

*All seams for the Stella are ½" unless otherwise stated.

I also want to remind everyone that if you would like to see any of the images posted in this blog larger, just click on them. Let's begin now.


Day 4 - Finishing Your Dress.

Hello! Welcome to the final day of the sew along.  We are so close now; we just have a few items to finish up and then you will have your dress all complete and ready for some lucky little lady.  So let's finish it up!

The first item we need to tackle is attaching the hem band to the skirt. The first thing we will want to do is to place the band pieces right sides together and stitch the short ends together.  

***Note: If you are using a directional fabric, make sure your bands are facing the same direction before sewing them together.  

Once they are stitched together, press the seams open. 

Then you will fold the band in half, lengthwise and press it flat.

Once the band is pressed flat, match the raw edge of the band to the raw edge of the shirt and sew along the edges.  

Finish the raw edges and press the seam towards the skirt, then topstitch 1/4" and 1/8" above the hem band.  

Once the hem band is complete, we need to attach the skirt to the bodice.  I like to finish the bottom edge of the bodice and the top edge of the skirt before I attach them together, that way I am not serging through several layers of fabric.  You can always wait until the end if that is what you are more comfortable with as well.  

Once the raw edges are finished (if you are doing them now), we need to gather the skirt.  To do this, I used the string included in my kit to complete my gathers.  

Placing the string along the edge of the fabric, I used a wide and long zig-zag stitch to sew over the string.  Be careful not to sew ON the string though!

This is what the edge will look like once the string is stitched along the edge.  

Then, pulling the string and pushing the fabric in the opposite direction, gather the skirt along the string. 

Once the skirt is mostly gathered and inside out, I put the bodice inside of it. Adjusting the gathers and matching right sides together, I pinned along the edges and sewed the bodice and skirt together.  If you have not already finished your raw edges, you will need to do so now.  

The final step to the dress is to make the sash.  I didn't take pictures when I did my first one (oops!) so I made another one for my second daughters dress and took pictures of it (that's why it's a different colorway than the rest of my dress).  

I made one change from the pattern to my sash; you can follow the pattern or do it this way.  I do not like a center seam in the front of my dress, so I cut one of my sash pieces in half and attached it at each end of the remaining piece.  

***Note: If you are using a directional fabric, make sure your pieces are facing the same direction before sewing them together.  

Once the three (or two if you are following the pattern) pieces are sewn together, I pressed the seam allowance to one side.  

Then folding the sash in half lengthwise, I went ahead and cut my angled edges. If find that I sew too far and forget to angle if I don't cut them first.  

Then I stitched around the edges of the sash, leaving a 3" opening along the raw edge for turning.  I also trimmed the corners before turning.  

Then I turned the sash right sides out through the opening.  

Then I pressed it nice and flat...

And topstitched along the edges.

Lining the center of the sash up with the center front and along the waist seam, topstitch the sash along the bottom edge from side seam to side seam.

And then you are DONE!

My daughter loves hers.  My other daughter was less than thrilled when she figured out she didn't have a matching dress, so guess who that second sash I made is for :)

Thanks for joining me on the Stella Sew Along.  I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did!  See you next time...

* If you would like to enter the prize drawing, please make sure you submit a picture of your completed lesson to the Facebook Album by 8:00 AM CT, Tuesday, April 1st. Questions? The Facebook Group is a great place to ask.

Sarah 
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