Sew-Along #8 - Lucy Dress - Lesson #2

The Lucy Dress by Children's Corner
*If you need to see more detail in any of the pictures please click on them to enlarge. 

Day 2- Creating Pockets, Attaching Pockets, and Attaching Piping.

Hi again! I hope you enjoyed lesson one, and are ready to work on lesson 2!

Pockets
First up today are the pockets. These were a labor of love for me. They took me the better part of an afternoon, but they turned out so sweet! Definitely worth the extra effort, particularly if you won't be adding any other embellishments. Alternatively, you could just use the pocket tops following the pattern directions.

Now that I've run through this, I would do things a little differently, and one of the things I would change is doing the piping in one continuous piece for the front pockets, rather than doing the curve and the top separately. My photos show the first method, but I will be explaining the second since it will be easier on you guys. Isn't it great when you can learn from someone else's mistake?!

The first step for adding piping to the pockets is to add piping around the entire front pocket section for both the left and the right side. Trim your piping to 1/4" width by cutting off around 1/4" from the raw edge. I thought that was a bit scant, so I left mine a little wider to make it easier to work with.

Note from Danielle: When using 1" strips to make my piping I don't ever feel the need to trim it before applying to my garment. It's just not necessary and as Emily said, it can get to small and become very hard to work with if you do. Just leave it and trim the seams later if necessary.

Begin pinning the piping around the front pocket edge, right sides together. All of the raw edges will be aligned. When you get to the corners, you will need to clip perpendicular to the cording, making sure to get close to the stitching without cutting through it. This will allow the cord to bend without the tape puckering.


(^^^ This picture does not show the pocket, since I used a different method, but it is the correct procedure!)

*You might want to check out the "Continuous Piping" tip below before proceeding.

Continue pinning around the pocket. Take it to your machine, and using your zipper foot and a normal stitch length, stitch all the way around the front pockets, near the cording.

Note from Danielle: You should be stitching right on top of the piping stitch line that you made when creating your piping. Just follow that line, super simple!

Tip from Danielle: Continuous Piping
I find it best to start my piping on the edge of the front pocket section that is longer. When starting your piping leave about an inch loose.
 

When you get to where you began, cross your two strips of piping to make a sort of V shape.

Stitch right over the top of the cording to secure your ends.


When you turn it out it should look like this.

Then, pipe only the top and approximately a quarter of the way down on the longer edge of the back pocket sections. In my example, I only did the top of the back pocket, and it left a bit of the edge exposed. I don't mind (at least not enough to redo it, so I just added a bow to cover it!) Make sure you do opposite sides to ensure symmetry when finished! I don't have a clear picture of this step since I did things a little differently.

Note from Danielle: Here are my silly pocket drawings. The blue line represents the top of the back pocket pieces.

Another Note from Danielle: Stack the front pocket section on top of the back pocket section just like you will be placing them on the dress. The blue lines represent the back pocket sections. Mark with a fabric marker just a smidge below where the back pocket section starts to come out from behind the front pocket sections (red X). This will be where you end your piping. Note, the green X is where you will start your piping, you will continue across the blue line, down the side, and stop at the red X.

Tip from Danielle: Adding Piping To the Back Pocket Section
To start piping on the top edge of your pocket you will first need to make a snip in the piping like we did for going around curves.

Next, line your snip up with the edge of the pocket. Green X above.

Pin the piping in place.


You will then fold the piping at a right angle with the excess hanging off the top edge of your pocket.


Stitch right across the folded cording and continue to attach the piping to the pocket top. You can stop and secure your stitches when you get half way across the pocket top.


When you are done it should look like this.

Trim off some of the excess.


Now, when you you flip up your piping the edge should look like this.


Continue to stitch your piping to your pocket top, turning the corner by clipping your piping like discussed previously. When you approach the mark you made to show where the pocket front covers the pocket back you will want to curve your piping like we did before on the continuous piping tip, except you will only be forming one side of a V.


Stitch right over the edge of your cording to secure it.


Click this picture to make it larger if needed. You can see that I stitched right over the edge of the piping, securing the cording.

When you flip up your piping you can see that you have a nice, closed, edge.

Now, layer all of the pocket lining pieces right sides together on top of each pocket piece. Still using your zipper foot, stitch around each pocket piece, leaving 1" open to turn it right side out.

Note from Danielle: I find it's easiest to stitch on the dress fabric side as opposed to the lining fabric side. Stitch right on top of the stitches you created when attaching your piping.

Trim the seams, clip the corners, and make notches around the curved edge to help everything lay nicely.


Turn right side out, and press. Make sure to press the raw edge of the opening under, so that when you topstitch, everything will be enclosed!


Attaching Pockets to Dress
Layer your left front and left back pieces on top of each other, mark your placement on the dress front, and topstitch in place. Repeat for the right side.

Note from Danielle: I always find it easiest to do a quick basting stitch to hold my pocket fronts and pocket backs together before I stitch them to the dress. This takes more time, so skip if you feel confident without doing this.

 
Whoo!!! Those crazy adorable pockets are all finished! Take a coffee break, then we will dive into attaching the piping!

Attaching Piping to Dress
Next, we will attach the piping to the dress. Begin pinning the raw edges of the piping matching up with the raw edge of the dress front. Make sure you are pinning to the right side. Again, when you come to corners, you will need to clip the bias tape without cutting the stitching.



Stitch in place using your zipper foot. Repeat for the back dress piece.

 
That's it for today!! See you all again Friday for Day 3!
Emily

Sew-Along #8 - Lucy Dress - Lesson #1

The Lucy Dress by Children's Corner 
* If you need to see more detail in any of the pictures please click on them to enlarge. 

Day 1- Cutting out pattern, making bias trim and piping.

Hello everyone! Who is excited to create this adorable Lucy dress?! I love how this turned out, and I can't wait to help you create your very own that you will treasure! 

Cutting Out Your Pattern
The first step will be to cut out your fabric using either the tissue pieces from your pattern or the freezer paper tracings you created. 

For view A, you will need:
Front (on fold) - 1 main and 1 lining
Back (on fold) - 1 main and 1 lining
Pockets - 4 main (2 reverse) and 4 lining (2 reverse)
Pocket tops - 4 contrast (if following the pattern) OR create additional piping instead as I will be showing.
Ruffle- 1 in contrast

I personally liked working with the pique, it made it very easy to find the grainline. If you are not familiar with finding the grain, here is my favorite way to do so. I learned this when I was ten while working on a 4-H project, and it stuck with me :-)

All you have to do is create a fold from the selvage to however wide you need it. Measure from the selvage to the fold at different points along the edge. If the measurements match exactly, you have found your grain!

 

Now lay your pattern front and pattern back out on the lining fabric with the straight edge aligned on the fold. Pin in place or use handy pattern weights. Mine are super fancy mini cans of soda. We had them leftover from a birthday party a few years back, and it works perfectly :-) I also had enough room to place my pocket pieces next to the front piece.

Repeat for your main fabric.

Making Bias Trim

Now on to the bias tape to be used for piping. This step sounds intimidating, but with a little bit of effort, it makes a gorgeous addition to this dress. 

The first step is to create a perfect square out of the accent/contrast material. This makes it much easier to stay lined up on the bias while you are cutting. I used two 15"x15" squares for my size 2 dress, and it was more than enough. I think one square would have been perfect. 

Take your square to your quilting mat. Align the edges on all four sides with the lines on the mat. You will find a 45 degree angle line, that is what you will be using for this method! (Don't mind the strange markings on my mat, I tried my hand at making cloth diapers previously!)

Now, you will use your quilting ruler and rotary cutter to make 1" cuts that are parallel to the 45 degree angle line. I achieve this by making the first cut directly in the center, then working my way to the sides by moving the ruler over one inch on the 45 degree line. 

I used the cording to measure around the front arm and neck opening.

Then the back neck and arm opening.

 

And finally around each pocket. The picture shows only around the curve of the bottom, but you will need two going all the way around, then two just across the top plus another inch or two down the sides.

Note from Danielle: Below is a diagram for the length of cording you will need to construct the pocket like Emily is teaching.  Don't mind how poor I am at drawing with my mouse.  ;)  You will need two pieces in each length shown if you are putting two pockets on your dress.

I used these cording pieces to determine which bias strips would work lengthwise.  If you have any cording that is longer than your bias stripes, piece them together at a right angle to make what ever length you need. Press the seam flat. 

 

Note from Danielle: If you are not sure how to splice your bias trim together just follow the instructions below.

 Lay your bias strips right sides together like this.

 

  

I like to use my ruler and a fabric marker to draw my stitch line.  You don't have to do this, but sometimes I forget where to sew when I'm at my machine.

 

Stitch down your stitch line.

 

It should look like this when you are done.

 

Trim the excess seam.

 

Press the seam open.

Constructing Piping
Now we are ready to construct the piping!

Take your strips and your cording to your machine. Attach your zipper foot, and set your stitch length to the longest setting.

Fold your bias tape in half, then carefully hold your cording in between the top and bottom piece of the strip.

Use your zipper foot to stitch close to the cord.

You now have a beautiful length of piping. Congrats!

Meet us back here Wednesday for day two, where we will work on the pockets, as well as attaching piping and constructing the dress!
Emily

Sew-Along #8 - Lucy Dress - Preparations

The Lucy Dress by Children's Corner 

Before we begin the sew-along on October 21^st, you will want to gather some items and do a few things to prepare.

Items to Collect

1. If you have not purchased the pattern yet, please do so ASAP.  You may purchase it from our shoppe by clicking here.
2. If you do not have fabric for the project you will want to purchase that ASAP also.  At the time of this writing we do have a few fabric kits for this project left.  Click here to see the project kits.  We also have lots of fun fabric selections on our website.  On the pattern link listed above you are able to view a chart to see how much fabric you need for the project. We are making view A during the sew-along.
3. You will also need coordinating thread to complete this project.  The project kits did not come with thread, so please make sure you have some. 
4. We will be making our own piping during the sew-along.  For this you will need petite cording.  All fabric kits came with plenty of petite cording to complete your project.  We also stock petite cording on our website.  Or you can look for cording at your local craft store.  I have heard of people using drapery cording with success.  I haven't done that myself as I have always used the petite cording that we stock.  You can check out our cording here.  
5. I highly recommend a zipper foot attachment for both creating and attaching your piping to the dress.  Your machine most likely came with one.  If not, you will need to purchase one.
6. If you did not purchase a project kit from us you will need to purchase a covered button kit or any buttons to match your dress.  Our project kits do have the covered button kits included.  This pattern called for 1/2” buttons, but we will be using 5/8" or 3/4” covered buttons in the sew-along.  I don't think I have ever seen a 1/2" covered button, but I could be wrong.  You can purchase these covered buttons at almost any store that sells fabric supplies.  
   
7. You will want a chop stick or some sort of turning tool for turning your pockets and dress straps.  Just anything not too sharp (don't want to rip any fabric) that you can use to push out the corners.
8. You will want some sort of fabric marking instrument.  You can use chalk, a marking pencil, washable fabric pen; even a bar of soap will work. 
   

   
   
9. And finally, you will need pins, a sewing machine, a good iron (a steam iron is preferable for sewing), and a pair of fabric shears. 
   
   

Optional Items to Collect - The following items are totally optional.  These are items I use because I feel they make sewing easier for me.  By no means do you need these items to complete the project.

1. Freezer paper to trace the pattern and cut out your fabric pieces.  You can find this at most grocery stores with the wax paper and aluminum foil.  Emily will not be tracing her pattern pieces in the sew-along, but I do mine.  The pattern is tissue and I make this dress a lot, so the tissue wouldn't last over and over for me.  Freezer paper it is.  I have a slight addiction anyway to the stuff.  ;)
   
2. A sharpie or other permanent marker for tracing your pattern pieces.  I recommend a black sharpie as the colored ones, though more fun, can tend to iron onto your fabrics.  Ack!  Had that happen recently and I was so sad.
3. You might want some sew-in or fusible interfacing to face the straps where you are sewing your buttons and button holes. 

   Note: Please make sure to ALWAYS preshrink any interfacing.  If you don't, it may shrink up when you wash your creation.  This will make your fabric look wrinkled and wavy.  It can also become wrinkled and wavy due to shrinkage just by using steam when you press.  To preshrink your interfacing you will need to soak it for 5 minutes or so in very warm water.  You don't want the water too hot to avoid removing the iron on finish on fusible, but you do want it warm enough to shrink the interfacing.  After soaking, just pat it with a clean towel and hang it to dry.

4. If you like the look of buttons but want the ease of quick dressing, you might want to purchase and use snaps on your dress straps.  You can still sew the buttons to the top of the strap for the "button" look.  I've done this for my girls and they have really liked not having to fiddle with buttons.  I've also used hook and eyes and then topped them with buttons.  You will probably want to use interfacing to strengthen these areas before applying your snaps or hook and eyes.
   
   
5. A quilting ruler, mat, and rotary cutter for cutting the bias tape for the piping will be very helpful.  It's not an easy task cutting even fabric strips using fabric shears.
6. Ric-rac, ribbon, or trim for decorating the dress might be desired.  If you embroidery/applique this dress is a perfect palette for that also.  Get creative!

Things to Do

1. Make sure to prewash and preshrink all of your fabrics.  I wash my fabrics on warm/hot and then I dry my fabrics in the dryer with no softeners.  I always preshrink this way when I am using fabric for clothing construction.  I would hate to work hard on something only to have it shrink and not fit when I was done.
2. Press your fabrics well.  I try to do this straight out of the dryer so that the wrinkles come out easier.  Then, fold it up and set it aside for Monday's lesson.
3. If you plan on using freezer paper to trace your patterns, you might want to do that before the sew-along starts so you are all ready to go come Monday.  We will not be doing this in the sew-along.  If you are not sure how to trace your pattern onto freezer paper and use freezer paper to cut out your fabric, check out this post here.  Also, we will be doing View A in the sew-along.  Emily, our instructor, has done a modification to her pocket and will be teaching it during the sew-along.  You can choose to follow the pattern directions for the pocket or follow along with Emily. 
4. If you haven't already, join our Facebook Sew-Along Group so you can post your progress pictures and be entered for a chance to win one of the fabulous gift certificates listed below!

Prizes
We will be giving away four $25 gift certificates and one $50 gift certificate to www.whimsicalfabric.com at the end of Sew-Along #8.  Four winners will be randomly drawn from all of the entries listed below and each will win a $25 gift certificate.  The fifth winner ($50 gift certificate winner) will be chosen by a fan vote on our Whimsical Fabric Facebook Page.  Details regarding the Facebook contest will be posted on the Facebook Sew-Along group.

• 1 entry if you purchase or have purchased the Lucy pattern using the SewAlongSavings code.
• 1 entry if you purchase or have purchased a Lucy fabric kit using the SewAlongSavings code. (If you purchased the kit with the pattern included then that's 2 points.)
• 2 entries for completing lesson 1 and entering a picture in the proper album by the deadline showing you completed it.
• 2 entries for completing lesson 2 and entering a picture in the proper album by the deadline showing you completed it.
• 2 entries for completing lesson 3 and entering a picture in the proper album by the deadline showing you completed it.
• 2 entries for completing lesson 4 and entering a picture in the proper album by the deadline showing you completed it.

Happy Sewing,

Danielle Storm
www.whimsicalfabric.com

Sew-Along #8 - Lucy Dress - Meet Your Instructor

The Lucy Dress by Children's Corner 

 We are very happy to introduce you to our Sew-Along #8 instructor, 

Emily Meyette-Romack.

Emily lives just outside of the Oklahoma City metro, in a small community. She currently attends Oklahoma State University where she is majoring in Secondary Education. She is married to Brian who works with special needs kids at the local high school. Together they have two beautiful children, Alla age 3 and Connor is nearly 10 months old. Emily has been sewing since she began 4-H at age 8. In her free time, she enjoys knitting, riding horses and reading, however her days are mostly full with playdates, homework and lots of snuggles and giggles with her kids!

Please help me in giving Emily a warm welcome.

Happy Sewing,  
Danielle Storm
www.whimsicalfabric.com 

Note: Sew-Along #8, Lucy Dress, begins October 21st.  If you would like to join us and need to purchase a pattern or a fabric kit you can do that here.